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Tips for sewing double brushed poly fabric

Tips for sewing double brushed poly fabric on a regular sewing machine

Recently I’ve had fun working with a new kind of fabric.  Double brushed poly fabric is a knit polyester fabric that has been brushed on both sides, making it super soft to wear, but a little tricky to work with.

Tips for sewing double brushed poly fabric on a regular sewing machine

Before I started sewing with double brushed poly fabric, I researched it a little bit.  I concluded that if you have a serger you will have almost no trouble sewing with double brushed poly fabric.  Since I didn’t sew either of the shirts in this post with a serger (because I don’t HAVE one!) I’ll give you some tips I’ve picked up along the way about sewing double brushed poly fabric with a regular sewing machine.

Tips for sewing double brushed poly fabric on a regular sewing machine

Double brushed poly fabric has a 4 way stretch that is greater than 100% and it has good recovery, which means it’s very forgiving to sew with.  It also has beautiful drape so there are many garments that look quite lovely sewn up with double brushed poly.

Tips for sewing double brushed poly fabric on a regular sewing machine

Quite a few seamstresses used double brushed poly fabric to make leggings, which is what I used it for my 1st time working with it.  This fabric is 96% polyester, which the name indicates, and can be a little too hot to wear as a fitted garment in the summer.  The other 4% is spandex.  Some have found that looser, breezier garments from double brushed poly fabric work great in the heat.  Personally, I’ve worn these 2 tops all summer with no trouble.

Tips for sewing double brushed poly fabric on a regular sewing machine

My biggest tip for sewing with double brushed poly fabric on a regular sewing machine is to use the right needle.  A new stretch or ballpoint needle will help your machine NOT skip stitches.

My 2nd tip is to use the right thread.  I had much better luck with 100% polyester thread than cotton or even a cotton/polyester blend.

My 3rd tip is to use the right stitch.  My machine has a stretch stitch which worked great for straight seams.  (You can also use a narrow zigzag stitch.)

The next tip is that if your machine starts skipping stitches (which seems to be the biggest problem when sewing with double brushed poly fabric) stop!  Rethread both the bobbin and the main thread, and try again.

Tips for sewing double brushed poly fabric on a regular sewing machine

And finally, a tip few tips for hemming double brushed poly fabric:

use a double needle (or zigzag stitch,)

a longer stitch length (I used about 3.5)

some Lite EZ-Steam II fusible tape inside the hems

I also buried the ends of the thread inside my seams so they didn’t come unraveled.  This means I had to hem the sleeves and bottom before I sewed the side seams.  But it works great, and in almost 3 months of wearing, no popped hems!

Tips for sewing double brushed poly fabric on a regular sewing machine

Pink shirt details:

Pattern source: Hey June Handmade Union St Tee

Fabric source:  Raspberry Creek Fabrics (no longer available, but a nice selection of double brushed poly fabric)

Blue shirt details:

Pattern source: Hey June Handmade Lane Raglan

Fabric source:  CaliFabrics (no longer available, but a nice selection of double brushed poly fabric)

Tips for sewing double brushed poly fabric on a regular sewing machine

Affiliate links are used in the post to some really good products!  Be warned that if you click through our links you might also be the proud owner of really awesome patterns and fabric!  And also, we might make a few pennies to be able to support this blogging habit we have!

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Ombre Syrah Skirt

Ombre Syrah Skirt sewn by Skirt Fixation

Ombre Syrah Skirt sewn by Skirt Fixation

As in years past, I made myself a skirt for my birthday.  And of course, it’s my new favorite skirt to wear!  But this time it’s for a very good reason.

Ombre Syrah Skirt sewn by Skirt Fixation

I sewed the Syrah Skirt pattern (full pattern review here.)  I chose it for this fabric because it has a lining, and this fabric is rather thin.  What is that fantastic fabric, you ask?  I got it at JoAnn Fabrics, here’s the direct link:  Knit Fabric-Double Border Ombre Slub Knit Mint (affiliate link)

Ombre Syrah Skirt sewn by Skirt Fixation

It’s a knit fabric, with a double border ombre knit.  To get a full length maxi skirt with the ombre running vertically down the skirt, I had to lay my Syrah pattern pieces horizontally across the grain of the fabric.  This worked out because the fabric has 4 way stretch.  This fabric is perfect for a Syrah Skirt.  It’s flow-y and swishy and has awesome movement which you can’t really tell from still photographs.  But this skirt seriously makes me want to walk barefoot along the beach!  I put in my request to Mr. Skirt Fixation…

Also, here’s my secret to get that soft, dreamy, minty look: I used the wrong side of the fabric!

Knit Fabric-Double Border Ombre Slub Knit Mint Yep!  If you look at this photo on the JoAnn Fabric’s website, you’ll notice it’s greener than my skirt.  Plus it has the trendy “slub knit” texture thing going on, which I also didn’t want on a scale as large as the Syrah Skirt.  So, to quote, “It’s my party and I’ll cry use the wrong side of the fabric if I want to!”

Ombre Syrah Skirt sewn by Skirt Fixation

Of course a skirt this fantastic needed a basic to support and accentuate all it’s greatness, so I paired it with my Union St. Tee.  (Oh, and a fun side note; today we’re celebrating Hey June June over on Instagram, so check that out!)  And those shoes?  They were given to my daughters by their cousin, and passed on to me completely unworn.  All the teenagers wanted them back once they saw me pairing them with my new Syrah Skirt, but I said no.  It was my birthday and all.

Ombre Syrah Skirt sewn by Skirt Fixation

Alright, leave me a comment about something.  Do you have a birthday tradition?  Have you ever used the wrong side of the fabric?  Stolen your daughter’s shoes?

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Union St. Tee Review

Union St. Tee sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

Union St. Tee sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

Perhaps you will think this blog post a little boring, but I’m pretty excited about this basic pattern.    This is the Hey June Handmade Union St Tee pattern.  Because I have a habit of making two Hey June Patterns at the same time (indecisive about which view to make!) I sewed up 2 Union St Tees, a v-neck and a scoop neck.

Union St. Tee sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

The Union St. Tee can be made in 9 sizes from XXS to 3X.  Besides the 2 different necklines, this tee can be made with 4 different sleeve lengths.  The illustrations are line drawings.  If you’ve never sewn with knits before, this pattern would be a great place to start.

Union St. Tee sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

The first Union St. Tee I made is the most boring, but the most exciting to me!  Before I sewed this shirt, I didn’t have a plain white tee.  I know!  Such a basic and such a huge hole in my wardrobe.  Problem fixed.  I sewed the scoop neck with elbow length sleeves.  The fabric is Riley Blake Designs basic white knit.  I still think the neckline could use a tad bit of work, but you better believe this one is going to be worn steady!  I forgot to make my standard wide shoulder adjustment, but it’s not too bad of a fit.  I will remember to do that next time, for sure.

Union St. Tee sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

The second Union St. Tee I made is the v-neck with short sleeves.  I had never sewed a v-neck before, and I got this one right on the first try.  I don’t think it was talent or luck, but another point for Adrianna, the designer of Hey June Handmade patterns.  She really is amazing!

Union St. Tee sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

For this v-neck I used club knit fabric from Raspberry Creek Fabrics.  It’s so soft and beautiful, and amazing.  I also forgot the wide shoulder adjustment on this one, and I think that is the cause of the pulling you can see above the chest.  Not like that’s going to keep me from wearing it, or anything!

Union St. Tee sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

The only change I made to this one was to raise the v-neck by 1 inch (and shorten the neckband accordingly) due to the fact that I bend up and down 100 million times a day (side effect of having 7 children) and I usually don’t have a free hand to keep my shirt from flopping open.

Union St. Tee sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

Sometimes it’s the simplest thing in life that satisfy us the most, and sewing up the Union St. Tee definitely fits that category.  Now leave me a comment…what satisfying thing have you done lately?