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2 Blue Sailor Tops {Selfish Sewing Week Day 1}

Sailor Top sewn by Skirt Fixation

Sailor Top sewn by Skirt Fixation

When I made my first Sailor Top pattern (by Fancy Tiger) I mentioned I had a few fit issues.  But once I got those worked out, this became a tried and true pattern for me, as evidenced by my makes for the first day of Selfish Sewing Week.

Sailor Top sewn by Skirt Fixation

The Sailor Top pattern was too tight across the shoulders even though it had raglan sleeves.  So at the recommendation of my friend Teri, I changed the sleeves to a larger size and kept the same body pieces.  I sewed all the seams with 1/4” instead of 5/8” seams.  This ended up with a perfect fit.

Sailor Top sewn by Skirt Fixation

I used one of my favorite fabrics, Art Gallery Millie Fleur Line Drawings Bluing Fabric (affiliate link) designed by Bari J.  You might remember when I used a similar fabric in yellow on canvas to make a jacket for quilt market.

Sailor Top sewn by Skirt Fixation

This is a quilting cotton, but as their motto states, you can feel the difference.  It’s perfect for this top, drapey and comfortable.

Sailor Top sewn by Skirt Fixation

So now that I had the fit down perfectly I felt like I could cut into my Nani Iro fabric.  And of course I had to change it up a little bit!

Sailor Top sewn by Skirt Fixation

I decided since I was using Japanese fabric on a top pattern with a slight Japanese kimono air, I was going to add a few other Japanese techniques.  Instead of gathering the front and back, I added small pleat folds.  It does change the shape of the neckline slightly, so the neckband doesn’t lay perfectly flat, but I’m happy with it.

Sailor Top sewn by Skirt Fixation

The other Japanese touch I added was to extra lines of topstitching on the neckband and sleeve hems.  This straight-line quilting effect is also something I’ve seen in Japanese sewing.  Just as a side note to Lauren Dahl, the neckband does indeed narrow at the shoulders, so my straight-line quilting had to be narrowed there as well.

Sailor Top sewn by Skirt Fixation

I am delighted about having two new shirts for summer wear.  Now I need the perfect skirt to wear with them.  What color and style would you suggest?

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Selfish Sewing Week Self-drafted Top

selfish sewing week top

selfish sewing week top

Today I’m going to tell you about the top I made for my Selfish Sewing Week outfit.  First of all, let me tell you, this is a wearable muslin.

From the Burda Style Dictionary: Muslin-Sewers speak of making ‘a muslin’ when they use a plain fabric to make a mock-up version of a pattern they want to try, as a kind of sample before they cut out and sew a final version in fashion fabric. The muslin is used to identify fitting issues and to make adjustments which the sewer then incorporates into their paper pattern.

Back of Jocole Yoga A-Line Skirt

So I’m calling this a wearable muslin because when you are 6 feet tall and you make a shirt that has sleeves long enough for you, you wear it no matter what issues it has!  Ah, the beauty of making your own clothes…

I had this idea for a shirt and dress pattern and I started playing around with it.  Can you believe the gals whose main theme is skirts might actually develop something that is not a skirt as their first pattern?  Don’t know…stay tuned!

Side of Selfish Sewing Week top

Things I love about this shirt:

  • raglan sleeves
  • looong sleeve length
  • slimming shape
  • one piece side inset shape
  • using a 3rd piece of my cherished Birch Organic Fabrics bird fabric!

Neckline of Selfish Sewing Week Top

Things I will change for the next time:

  • Start the inset/contrast fabric at the neckline
  • Curve in even more at the waist
  • Take out a few inches in the front and back to make it more fitted
  • Sew the FOE at the neckline tighter.  (To be fair; this was my 1st time working with FOE!)
  • Lengthen the top to carry on the inset/contras fabric shape longer

Julia Cardigan

I’d gladly take any suggestions you have for my work in progress!  Since it’s Selfish Sewing Week, I might actually decide to do something about these changes this week!  Tomorrow I’ll share with you the last piece in my ensemble, anyone recognize what pattern it is?

What have you been working on?  Anything for yourself?

Selfish Sewing Week top