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View B Ruched Tankini Sew Along

Ruched tankini sew along

Today we’re going to sew the ruched tankini front panel on View B of the Grace Tankini.  This is the part that gets the most questions, so we thought a photo tutorial would be helpful.  It’s worth it to make the ruched panel on View B…it’s many people’s favorite part about this view!

Ruched tankini sew along

Step 1:

Cut out the front panel.  As suggested in the Grace Tankini pattern, do not cut it out on the fold, but open up your fabric, cut 1/2 of the piece, flip the pattern piece over and cut the other half.

Ruched tankini sew along

Step 2:

After sewing the gathering stitches on the sides of the ruched front panel, gather it.  It is helpful to lay out your side piece to see how far to gather the front panel.  Start the gathers at the dot, below the notch where the top of the side panel goes.

As stated in the pattern, you can concentrate the ruching wherever you want to!  More ruching=minimization of that area.  Try to keep the gathers even from side to side so they don’t slant diagonally across your body.  End the gathers 1/5” above the bottom of the front panel so it doesn’t sag down across the bottom.  (Apologies for the blurriness of this photo.  It’s the only one I ended up with!)

You can see how I’ve pinned down my side piece to keep it from moving as I gathered the front panel.  When you are finished gathering, the bottom of the front and side will line up.  The top of the side piece will be at the notch of the front panel.

Ruched tankini sew along

Step 3:

Once the front panel is the same length as the side panel (from the notch to the hem,) pin them right sides together.  Gently curve the shape of the front panel and the side piece to match up.

Ruched tankini sew along

Step 4:

Sew the front panel and side piece together.  We’ve found it more helpful to have the ruched front panel down against the feed dogs to help pull the gathers along evenly.

There you have it!  Continue with the instructions to make the rest of the Grace Tankini.

Ruched tankini sew along

Grab your copy of the Grace Tankini here.

Fabric used in this tutorial is from CaliFabrics.

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Sewing the Circle Cut Out in the Grace Tankini

How to sew the circle cut out in the back of your Grace Tankini pattern.

We’ve got a tutorial for you about sewing a circle cut out in the back of the Grace Tankini for View A.  This part is not hard at all and adds such fun to the back!

How to sew the circle cut out in the back of your Grace Tankini pattern.

You could actually use the back pattern piece to add a circle cut out to the back of View B also.  Or use a CD and place it in the center back (between the shoulder blades) of your favorite swimsuit pattern, and use this tutorial to add a circle cut out to the back of your swimsuit!  Once you have cut out the pattern pieces of both your main fabric and your lining or shelf bra, follow this photo tutorial.

How to sew the circle cut out in the back of your Grace Tankini pattern.

Step 1:

Line up the two circles and pin.  The right side of your main fabric will be facing up, and the wrong side of your shelf bra or lining will be facing up.  In other words, right sides together!

How to sew the circle cut out in the back of your Grace Tankini pattern.

Step 2:

Carefully sew around the edges of the circle, using a 1/2” seam allowance.  Stop and adjust the fabric as needed.  It’s easiest if you put your needle down in the fabric and adjust the layers.  Alternately, you can baste, check it, and then sew.  If your fabric is thin and doesn’t have good stability, you might try marking the circle onto the back of the fabric and sewing this step before cutting out the fabric from in the middle.  This will ensure your circle doesn’t end up stretched out of shape.

How to sew the circle cut out in the back of your Grace Tankini pattern.

Step 3:

Snip around the circle, up to but NOT through your line of stitches you just sewed.  This will allow the circle to lay flat.  I’ve found using just the tip of a sharp scissors to be the key here.

How to sew the circle cut out in the back of your Grace Tankini pattern.

Here’s a close up so you can tell how close to go to the stitched circle.

How to sew the circle cut out in the back of your Grace Tankini pattern.

Step 4:

Pull your lining or shelf bra through the hole so it is now on the wrong side of the swimsuit back where it belongs.  Carefully press around the circle to get it to lay flat.

How to sew the circle cut out in the back of your Grace Tankini pattern.

Step 5:

Sew around the circle again with a 1/4” – 3/8” seam allowance.  As you sew, you want to gently roll the lining/shelf bra to the underside so it doesn’t show on the right side when you are finished.

How to sew the circle cut out in the back of your Grace Tankini pattern.

And there you have it!  In the above photo you can see the inside and outside of the circle cut out.  Your circle cut out in the back of a swimsuit is completely finished!  Bring on the sun…

How to sew the circle cut out in the back of your Grace Tankini pattern.

 

Grab your copy of the Grace Tankini here.

Fabric used in this tutorial is from CaliFabrics.

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Modifying the Grace Tankini for Removable Bra Cups

Removable bra cups tutorial from Skirt Fixation

Today we’ve got a special tutorial for you on how to modify the Grace Tankini pattern to allow for removable bra cups.  This is useful for breast cancer survivors who may have mastectomy prosthesis to insert into different bras or swimwear, or to allow for any other inserts.

Grab your copy of the Grace Tankini here.

Let’s get started:

Removable Bra Cups Tutorial

Removable bra cups tutorial from Skirt Fixation

Cut out 2 shelf bra fronts from lining fabric.  They are pictured above at the top right.

Removable bra cups tutorial from Skirt Fixation

Cut the straps off of one of them.  You will do this below the center of the armhole, and across to the neckline, leaving a portion of the neckline intact so you can catch it in the elastic later.

Removable bra cups tutorial from Skirt Fixation

Serge/finish top slanted edges you just cut so they hold up better when inserting and removing bra cups.

Removable bra cups tutorial from Skirt Fixation

 

Sew together the two shelf bra front pieces with a straight stitch down the center, from the neckline center to the bottom center.  See the dotted line in the photo above.  This is to help keep the bra cups in place so they don’t migrate around during wear.

Removable bra cups tutorial from Skirt Fixation

Treat the 2 front layers as 1 as you are sewing the suit following the instructions.

Removable bra cups tutorial from Skirt Fixation

When you assemble the shelf bra into the Grace Tankini, you want the side with the cut off shoulder straps touching your body.  There will be an opening where you cut off the shoulder straps to insert bra cups or mastectomy prosthesis.

Removable bra cups tutorial from Skirt Fixation

From the outside, the suit looks exactly the same!  Above you might notice the other modification made to the Grace Tankini by making it into a cropped two-piece suit!

Two Piece Grace TankiniNow she can transfer her removable bra cups from suit to suit!

This tutorial can be used with any swimsuit pattern that has a shelf bra.  Of course we recommend the Grace Tankini!

Special thanks to tester Tee Bee for photographing this tutorial.

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Grace Tankini Tester Hacks!

Grace Tankini hack with ruffle on bottom

Grab your copy of the Grace Tankini during the sale at Savvy Patterns.

Some of the fabulous testers of the Grace Tankini went on to sew additional suits and make some really genius hacks to the pattern.  Today I’m sharing some of them with you for inspiration.

Grace Tankini with skirted top hack

Rebecca changed the top of her Grace Tankini to have a skirted top!  It looks so comfortable.  To make this change, you could cut the pattern off below the bust and add a gathered rectangle of fabric to the bottom of it.


Grace Tankini hack with ruffle on bottom

Melissa omitted the side splits on the sport skirt and added a ruffle.  And just like that, everyone else needed a ruffle on their skirt too!

Grace Tankini Bikini

Tee Bee made so many versions of the Grace Tankini!  She was definitely the tireless tester!  But now she has an amazing selection of mix and match swimwear!  Her hack was making the Grace Tankini into a bikini by using the shelf bra only and some high waisted panties.  She also helped test a tutorial for removable bra cups which is coming next week.


Reversible Grace Tankini
Synthia made the top of her Grace Tankini reversible by making the shelf bra removable and using fold over elastic on the arm and neck holes.  It’s so pretty, and she’s got two looks in one suit!

Grace Tankini with removable skirtRemember Tiffany’s beautiful Grace Tankini from the original testers post?  Well, the secret is that the circle skirt is removable!  This makes it into a kind of cover up, and gives her a sort of 2 in 1 suit!  Several of the testers did this also.

Mesh back of Grace Tankini

Katrina used power mesh only for the back of her view A top, and ended up with a sassy, see-through suit!  You can also see a little strip of mesh on the side of her panty.  She got all sorts of creative!  Plus she’s my grammar and spelling police, so I kind of love her!

Other amazing things testers did with the Grace Tankini pattern:

Shortened the sport skirt by 3 inches to just cover the panty.

Added flat seam piping to the side seams.

Used the panty pattern pieces to make themselves underwear, or knickers if you’re in the UK.

Added side accent strips to the sides of the View A top.

It’s pretty amazing all the things you can do with the Grace Tankini pattern!  What are you waiting for?

Grab your pattern today during the release week sale at Savvy Patterns.

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Grace Tankini – now available!

The Grace Tankini is a classy tankini you can feel confident sewing and wearing!

The Grace Tankini pattern is finally available for purchase!   Grab your copy over at Savvy Patterns…on sale for 25% off this week.

The Grace Tankini is a classy tankini you can feel confident sewing and wearing!

The Grace Tankini is a vintage inspired swimsuit with lots of options.  On top, you have 2 choices, both fun and classy!  Choose from a circle skirt, a sporty bottom with or without ruching, or a panty for the bottom. Each of these 4 bottoms can be made either high waisted or to sit on your hips. The Grace Tankini is the ultimate feminine swimsuit. Feel confident and look classy!The Grace Tankini is a classy tankini you can feel confident sewing and wearing!

The View A top’s best feature is in the back.  A circle cutout adds a fun, playful element.  Each view has a supportive shelf bra.

 

This top can be combined with any of the 4 bottoms.  Here you see the circle skirt, which really is a full circle.  This skirt can be made to sit on the hips, or high waisted for extra tummy control.  Hidden underneath is the fully lined panty, which can also be made as a stand alone bottom piece.

If you’ve never sewn swimwear before, don’t worry, the pattern is loaded with tips and links to video and photo tutorials to help you through the process.

 

 

The Grace Tankini is a classy tankini you can feel confident sewing and wearing!

The View B top has a ruched center area which is customizable to flatter your figure.  The fun side panels offer a place for color blocking if you want.  Both tops can be fully lined if you choose.

The Grace Tankini is a classy tankini you can feel confident sewing and wearing!

This top is shown with the ruched sport skirt.  Both the ruched and plain sport skirts can have pockets added to them.  Each also has a panty concealed underneath, and can be made high waisted or to sit on the hips.

The Grace Tankini pattern also offers the option of adding a card pocket, perfectly sized for securing a credit card or room key while you swim.

With so many options, which one will you decide to sew up first?

Be sure to grab the pattern this week while it’s on sale for 25% off at Savvy Patterns.

Grace Tankini Model: Leslie from Threadbear Garments

Grace Tankini Fabric: CaliFabrics

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Swimwear Notions & 2 Ways to Sew Elastic into Swimwear

Adding elastic and boning to swimwear, a photo tutorial by Skirt Fixation

This post is all about the notions you need when sewing swimwear.  Grab your copy of the Grace Tankini here.

First let’s talk about elastic.


You want to be sure to use elastic specifically made for swimwear when sewing the Grace Tankini.  Cotton swimwear elastic is stretchier than other elastic, and holds up better to the ravages of chlorine water.  The Grace Tankini pattern uses 1/4″ swimwear elastic on the neckline, armholes, and leg holes.  You can buy it at your local sewing shop, and online.  You can even buy it by the roll on Amazon if you plan to sew a lot of elastic!

The other place elastic is used in the Grace Tankini is on the shelf bra.  Since this width is a little harder to find, you can either use regular 3/4″ elastic, or buy it by the roll on Amazon.

There are 2 ways to sew elastic into swimwear, and we’ve created a video tutorial to show you both ways.  Try them both, and use your favorite method.

The other notion you might use when sewing swimwear is boning.  Boning is useful for giving a shelf bra extra support on the sides.  When there is wrinkling in the bust area on the sides of a garment, that area could benefit from boning.

Prym Dritz Featherlite Twill Boning White

You can buy boning by the package or by the yard at your local sewing store.  Boning often has a cloth cover over a plastic or nylon insert.  Here is how we suggest adding boning to the Grace Tankini:


Adding boning to swimwear, a photo tutorial by Skirt Fixation

Zig zag your side seam allowances to the back of the shelf bra.  By doing this, you create a channel to insert the boning.  Continue with the pattern until you have inserted the underbust elastic.

Adding boning to swimwear, a photo tutorial by Skirt Fixation

If your boning has a cover, pull it back.  Cut your boning to match the length of the channel you created, minus about 1/2″ at the top of the side seam where you will be installing your armhole elastic.

Adding boning to swimwear, a photo tutorial by Skirt Fixation

Slide the boning into the channel.  That’s it!  Finish constructing your Grace Tankini, and forget worrying about having enough support!

Some people consider the notions to be the trickiest part of sewing swimwear, but we’ve made it easy for you with these swimwear notions tutorials.

Grab your copy of the Grace Tankini here.

Some affiliate links are used in this post to supplies we really love and use often.  If you click on one of our affiliate links, we might make a few pennies at no extra cost to you.  Thank you!

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Grace Tankini Tester Call

Grace Tankini by Savvy Patterns

The Grace Tankini is now available!  Grab your copy of the Grace Tankini here.

For almost 1 year I’ve been working on my next pattern, and today I’m finally calling for testers to help get the Grace Tankini ready for sale!  It’s a really exciting day, and I’m so glad for everyone’s help.

Grace Tankini by Savvy Patterns

The Grace Tankini is a vintage inspired swimsuit with lots of options.  View A contains a circle skirt and a top with a playful circle in the back.  View B has ruched center areas which are customizable to flatter your figure.  The sporty bottoms can be made with or without matching ruching.  You can mix and match the 2 tops with 4 bottom options.  Include the 2 perfectly sized patch pockets to keep things stored while you swim.  The secure card pocket can be added to any of the bottoms.  Both top views include a shelf bra.  The Grace Tankini is the ultimate feminine swimsuit.  Whether you’re looking for a suit with more coverage due to modesty or skin sensitivity or some other reason, the Grace Tankini is the swimsuit for you!

Testers will be notified by email by May 30.  You will have 1 week to source fabric (I know not everyone has swimsuit fabric laying around!)  and the test will begin June 5.  If you can fulfill those time requirements, please fill out the tester form below.

Don’t think you can sew swimwear, or need some inspiration?  Right now there’s a swimwear tour filled with all things swimwear sewing.  Check it out:

Hosted by Sew Sophie Lynn & Paisley Roots
Pear Berry Lane / Inspinration / It’s Liesel / Sewing For Four
Harper Lu / Call Ajaire / Stylin Stacy / Skirt Fixation
Sewing By Ti / Sewing With Sarah / Sew & TellMe Made
Made By Melli / Life Sew Savory / That’s What She Crafted / Auschick
Rebel & Malice / EYMM / Stitching & Making / Lilliepawillie

And like any great blog tour there is a giveaway hosted by these sponsors:

We’re going to be giving away a Grace Tankini pattern!  Get all the details here.

Grab your copy of the Grace Tankini here.

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Runway Skirt Blog Tour Day 4

I am so excited about today’s stops on the Runway Skirt blog tour!  You can find the giveaway at the end of this post.

First up we have Scary from Shaffer Sisters.  I absolutely adore the Shaffer Sisters blog and can’t wait to see more of Scary’s Runway Skirt.  Click on the picture to see for yourself.

shaffer-sisters

Next down the runway we have Heather from Feather Flights.  I am in totally draw dropping awe of her preview photo, so you’ll have to excuse me for a minute while I go check out her post!  (Click on the photo to be transported…)

Heather Feather's Runway Skirt

The last stop on today’s tour is…me!  Since I am 7 months pregnant, I’ve been getting a bit envious of all these gorgeous versions of the Runway Skirt being sewn and not being able to wear one myself.  So I created a maternity add on for the Runway Skirt!maternity-cover-croppedYou can find it in the Savvy Patterns shop for the very low price of $3.00 because you also need the main Runway Skirt pattern.  There are 3 different options for modifying the Runway Skirt for maternity wear; an underbelly waistband (picture on the right above,) a fold over waistband (pictured on the left above,) and an additional panel that can be added under either waistband.  I sewed this version from a sweater knit for the main fabric and burgundy chiffon for the godets.  I also lined this skirt, so I will have a tutorial on how to line your Runway Skirt soon.

black-skirt

While testing the Runway Skirt maternity add on, I also sewed this all black version.  The main skirt is from a very lightweight french terry fabric and the godets are bamboo rayon jersey.  So basically secret pajamas!

Grab the Runway Maternity Skirt Add On here at Savvy Patterns.

Be sure to enter the giveaway below.  You can win a copy of the Runway Skirt and also a $25 gift certificate to Urban Sew, which should buy you enough fabric to make your Runway Skirt.

a Rafflecopter giveaway

And finally, you can grab the Runway Skirt on sale especially for this tour.  Buy it here at Savvy Patterns.

Come back the rest of the week for some more amazing skirts from these talented ladies:

runway-skirt-blog-tour-graphic

12-5  Friends Stitched Together & Very Blissful Blog

12-6 Call Ajaire & Sew Mariefleur

12-7 Rebel And Malice & Inspinration & Shaffer Sisters

12-8 Paisley Roots & Feather Flights & Skirt Fixation

12-9 Enantiomerproject & My Sweet Sunshine & Sew Haute Blog

 

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Black Friday-Cyber Monday Sale & Tester Photos

Knee Length Runway Skirt by Savvy Patterns

While you are making your Black Friday plans, be sure to include Savvy Patterns!  We’re having a 30% off sale storewide.  This means you can get the Runway Skirt for yourself and send gift certificates to any one you like for the lowest prices of the year!  Sale runs from Black Friday – Cyber Monday (11/24 – 11/28) and discount will already be shown.

Now I’d like to show you some of the tester versions of the Runway Skirt so you can see many possible options. I was so fortunate to have very talented and kind testers for my first pattern!

Midi Runway Skirt by Savvy Patterns

Amy made a 32″ midi length in scuba knit with lightweight jersey godets.

Knee Length Runway Skirt by Savvy Patterns

Britt made a 26″ knee length in stretch velvet with lightweight peach skin godets.

Knee Length Runway Skirt by Savvy Patterns

Jeannette made a 26″ knee length in scuba knit with silky godets.

Maxi Runway Skirt by Savvy PatternsKaren sewed a 42″ maxi skirt from ponte knit with lace godets for her daughter.

Knee Length Runway Skirt by Savvy Patterns

Katie was one of my pre testers, and I owe a lot to her!  Her Runway Skirt is knee length, in knit with rayon gauze godets.

Midi length Runway Skirt by Savvy Patterns

Katrina used a knit and lace fused for the main portion of her skirt and lace for the godets.

Knee Length Runway Skirt by Savvy Patterns

Kellie made a 24″ knee length skirt from ponte de roma with knit lace godets.

Knee length Runway Skirt by Savvy Patterns

Kerrie sewed a 23″ knee length skirt in ponte with lightweight knit for the godets.

Knee Length Runway Skirt by Savvy Patterns

Melana made a 25″ knee length skirt in knit jersey rayon with Ity knit godets.

Midi length Runway Skirt by Savvy Patterns

Tenille made a 30″ midi skirt from a wool blend stretch woven with chiffon godets.

Didn’t all these ladies do a wonderful job?  Can’t you just see the confidence in their eyes as if they were walking on a runway?

Now you see how many variations of the Runway Skirt can be made using different lengths and fabrics. Grab yours during the 30% off sale over at Savvy Patterns!

 

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New Pattern Shop!

Savvy Patterns Shop

Almost as hard as I’ve been working on the Runway Skirt pattern, I’ve been working on setting up a new shop so you have a place to buy it!  There have been some changes to Skirt Fixation too, and now there is a tab in the top menu to connect to the shop, Savvy Patterns.

Savvy Patterns Shop

Here’s a quick view of the shop, currently home to the Runway Skirt and gift cards for anyone you think would love to sew one!

Of course there’s a tab over at Savvy Patterns so you can return here any time you want.

That’s it for today, I’d love for you to go explore the new site, Savvy Patterns.  And stay tuned here for more news, coming soon!