This fabric is light, and swingy, and just perfect for this pattern. I had never sewn a neckline with binding instead of a band, and I really like the clean finish. The cuffs on the arms have a similar clean finish. In fact, everything on the inside of this shirt is so clean and finished that I accidentally wore it inside out the other day…and no one noticed!
I made view C and the only change I made for the muslin was to lengthen the dolman sleeves by about 2 inches to accommodate for my wide shoulders.
Like all Hey June Handmade patterns we’ve sewn, this one is easy to follow. The illustrations are drawn and the instructions are clear and complete. It can be made in 7 sizes from XS to 2X. There are 6 different variations you could make.
After making this muslin, I decided to make another Sante Fe Top the next day! The only change I made for fit was to raise the neckline by about 1 inch and shorten the binding accordingly. I used some cheap knit fabric I picked up at Hancock Fabric’s going out of business sale. It’s lightweight and only has two way stretch, which makes it another great fit for this pattern.
For a little Anthro-esque touch, I added a strip of blue lace down the front seam. I polled my sewing friends on Instagram before adding it, and there was overwhelming support for this idea. One of my sewing friends suggested adding the lace to the raglan sleeves of view F, and since I absolutely love this idea, I guess I’ll be making another Sante Fe Top soon!
You might have noticed I left both the hems of these Sante Fe Tops raw edges. This is for 2 reasons. 1: knit fabric doesn’t fray, so no hemming needed. 2: my double needle is currently in time out for not meeting my expectations for hem perfection. I knew the situation wouldn’t improve with thin fabrics.
Here’s what I love about the fit of the Sante Fe top: it hugs your curves, and then flares out for a looser fit around the waist and hips. The result is about the most comfortable shirt ever. I’ve been wearing one or other of these every week!
So if you’ve got some cheap lightweight knit fabric laying around that you purchased before you knew what you were doing when buying knit fabric (not that I’d know anything about that, ahem!) turn it into some Sante Fe Tops! You can thank me later.
Oh, and the Halifax Hoodie is currently the featured pattern which means it’s on sale, so grab it too while you’re at Hey June Handmade. You’re going to need it this fall!
Affiliate links are used in this post. I would have been using them on all Hey June Handmade posts before this, but I just recently realized they have an affiliate program! I’m just telling you this in case you are opposed to helping support my fabric habit, and don’t want to click on any links.
Annie sewed a fun project for 4H this year. Last year she sewed a skirt, and every year the child is supposed to show advancement of skills. Now, in her level (K-2,) this isn’t a requirement and everyone gets a blue ribbon no matter what they create. But we decided it was a good opportunity for Annie to learn some new skills.
Adrianna just released the City Park Tee, and then did a series of tutorials on how to make the City Park Tee into a dress. I showed the 3 looks to Annie and she chose the classic straight tee dress. I asked Annie to share what she remembered/loved from making her City Park Tee dress, and here’s what she said:
We made it 20 inches longer than the longest size which was just above my ankles. We used the City Park Tee into a dress using a tutorial from Hey June Handmade. The neckband was pretty tricky but I put lots of pins in it. It has different options for sleeves, but I used the short sleeve option. I chose this fabric because brown looks better than light colors on my body. We used almost all of this fabric that we had. My favorite part of making this dress is getting to wear it.
Just for reference, Annie is 8. This was her 1st time sewing with knit fabric. I kept her in constant supervision, sometimes helping to steer the fabric through the machine. We also talked about each step of the directions and what it meant. The City Park Tee is a very easy pattern to follow, and has illustrations for each step. It really wasn’t too hard for Annie to understand and picture most steps before she started sewing it.
Annie now regularly haunts our knit fabric stash plotting and planning the next City Park Tee or Dress she’s going to make! I’m so proud of her, and if you are too, leave a comment!
Affiliate links are used in this post so we can feed Annie’s new sewing addiction!!!
It’s a knit fabric, with a double border ombre knit. To get a full length maxi skirt with the ombre running vertically down the skirt, I had to lay my Syrah pattern pieces horizontally across the grain of the fabric. This worked out because the fabric has 4 way stretch. This fabric is perfect for a Syrah Skirt. It’s flow-y and swishy and has awesome movement which you can’t really tell from still photographs. But this skirt seriously makes me want to walk barefoot along the beach! I put in my request to Mr. Skirt Fixation…
Also, here’s my secret to get that soft, dreamy, minty look: I used the wrong side of the fabric!
Yep! If you look at this photo on the JoAnn Fabric’s website, you’ll notice it’s greener than my skirt. Plus it has the trendy “slub knit” texture thing going on, which I also didn’t want on a scale as large as the Syrah Skirt. So, to quote, “It’s my party and I’ll cry use the wrong side of the fabric if I want to!”
Of course a skirt this fantastic needed a basic to support and accentuate all it’s greatness, so I paired it with my Union St. Tee. (Oh, and a fun side note; today we’re celebrating Hey June June over on Instagram, so check that out!) And those shoes? They were given to my daughters by their cousin, and passed on to me completely unworn. All the teenagers wanted them back once they saw me pairing them with my new Syrah Skirt, but I said no. It was my birthday and all.
Alright, leave me a comment about something. Do you have a birthday tradition? Have you ever used the wrong side of the fabric? Stolen your daughter’s shoes?
Perhaps you will think this blog post a little boring, but I’m pretty excited about this basic pattern. This is the Hey June Handmade Union St Tee pattern. Because I have a habit of making two Hey June Patterns at the same time (indecisive about which view to make!) I sewed up 2 Union St Tees, a v-neck and a scoop neck.
The Union St. Tee can be made in 9 sizes from XXS to 3X. Besides the 2 different necklines, this tee can be made with 4 different sleeve lengths. The illustrations are line drawings. If you’ve never sewn with knits before, this pattern would be a great place to start.
The first Union St. Tee I made is the most boring, but the most exciting to me! Before I sewed this shirt, I didn’t have a plain white tee. I know! Such a basic and such a huge hole in my wardrobe. Problem fixed. I sewed the scoop neck with elbow length sleeves. The fabric is Riley Blake Designs basic white knit. I still think the neckline could use a tad bit of work, but you better believe this one is going to be worn steady! I forgot to make my standard wide shoulder adjustment, but it’s not too bad of a fit. I will remember to do that next time, for sure.
The second Union St. Tee I made is the v-neck with short sleeves. I had never sewed a v-neck before, and I got this one right on the first try. I don’t think it was talent or luck, but another point for Adrianna, the designer of Hey June Handmade patterns. She really is amazing!
For this v-neck I used club knit fabric from Raspberry Creek Fabrics. It’s so soft and beautiful, and amazing. I also forgot the wide shoulder adjustment on this one, and I think that is the cause of the pulling you can see above the chest. Not like that’s going to keep me from wearing it, or anything!
The only change I made to this one was to raise the v-neck by 1 inch (and shorten the neckband accordingly) due to the fact that I bend up and down 100 million times a day (side effect of having 7 children) and I usually don’t have a free hand to keep my shirt from flopping open.
Sometimes it’s the simplest thing in life that satisfy us the most, and sewing up the Union St. Tee definitely fits that category. Now leave me a comment…what satisfying thing have you done lately?
Alrighty then! I promised you another Lane Raglan sew/wear off, so today’s the day! When I made my black new Lane Raglan from the new pattern I absolutely love, love, loved the new fit. And apparently so did Allegra. She tried it on and refused to take it off and return it to me until I agreed to sew one for her.
So now we have 2 black Lane Raglans exactly the same except for the little ribbon I sewed inside the neckband of mine to differentiate between them. But a boost post of a sew/wear off of two black new Lane Raglans would be quite boring, right?
So I made myself another one to add some variety. I wish I would have taken a photo before I threw my old Lane Raglan pattern away, but I compared the new and old pattern pieces and they are completely different. This new Lane Raglan pattern was completely revamped.
I really admire the persistence of Adrianna, the genius behind Hey June Handmade Patterns. I mean, as Skirt Fixation readers know, this pattern was very good and very much loved by one and all! But Adrianna wasn’t satisfied because of a few little issues so she stuck with it until she created the perfect pattern.
We will be really surprised if there are any more updates to this pattern because it’s perfect now. But we were pretty sure it was perfect before too! We will keep sewing Lane Raglans because they are so awesome. Now to decide which version to sew next!
These two are the elbow sleeve, curved hem version. If you’re not already a proud new Lane Raglan owner, you can get the pattern here. No affiliate link, just major fan girls! Also, we’re in love with the new Camden Raglan pattern by Hey June Handmade for juniors.
Fabric for my and David’s shirts from Hancock Fabrics. The coral is leftover Art Gallery Knit fabric from making Annie’s leggings. Fabric for Allegra’s (and my other Lane) came from JoAnn Fabrics. I can’t link to it because I’m not sure which black knit fabric on their website it is. I just walked the knit aisle at JoAnn’s feeling every black knit until I found the one with the softest hand that was 100% cotton. It also happened to be the most expensive… Feeling it is the best way I’ve found to get the right kind of knit fabric. If you have to buy knit fabric online for your first time sewing with knit fabrics, use a knit from Art Gallery Fabrics. They have so many solid and patterned options, and their knit will guarantee your first time sewing with knits turns out well. Plus, I’ve found Art Gallery knit fabric to be very durable with no pilling. You can find it many places, but the widest selection can probably be found at Hawthorne Threads. Do you have any tips for buying knit fabric online?
So, I have to admit I was a little hesitant to try the newly updated Lane Raglan pattern due to loving it so much and knew that the fit had been altered on the latest update. Well! After sewing up the new update, here’s where the old pieces are!
Just for the record, this is the 3rd one I’ve made. So yeah, there will be a Lane Raglan sew/wear off Round 3 coming soon! For this one I used the elbow length sleeves and shortened them a little bit for summer. I’d like to say it was intentional, but the fact of the matter is I didn’t have enough fabric to go the whole length! Funny story: I was really using up scraps to make this wardrobe basic, and the front and one sleeve are from leftover bamboo cotton from making this skirt, while the back and other sleeve are leftover from making this skirt! But they’re both the same shade of black, so it’s all good!
I also used the new scooped hem, which I really love. I mean, I love the banded hem, but I think this one is going to be in constant rotation this summer.
Last note: Annie, my 7 year old was the photographer for this photo shoot! She told me how to pose, where to stand and was very serious about it all! I guess because we’re so often on different sides of the camera she was really excited about shooting this one for me. I have to say she did pretty good, although I think her perspective makes me look even taller, if possible!
I promised you a tutorial on how to turn the Lane Raglan pattern by Hey June Handmade into a cropped, 3/4 length sleeve, cardigan. It’s really quite easy, so let’s get started.
First of all, you need to cut out your front pattern piece one size larger than you usually wear. The other thing you need to do before sewing is make your length adjustments. The length adjustments are really quite easy and don’t need photos to explain. Simply shorten the sleeves and the front and back pieces to the length you want them to be. Then add the cuffs and waistband as instructed in the Lane Raglan pattern instructions.
The button up front can be done two different ways, either before or after the garment is constructed. We changed it to a cardigan after sewing the Lane Raglan as instructed because we thought it made the neckband easier to deal with.
Cut the finished Lane Raglan up the front. The easiest way to do this is to lay your front pattern piece on top of the garment.
Add a piece of interfacing inside both fronts about 1” wide by the length of the front.
Fold over the interfaced part, along the edge of the interfacing, press, and edge stitch it in place.
Sew buttonholes and buttons. We chose to sew double buttonholes because we just love the sweet, vintage look of it.
If you were going to change it to a cardigan before sewing the Lane together, you would cut the front in 1/2 and apply interfacing as pictured above. The you would attach the neckband and waistband starting and ending at the fronts of the cardigan. Then, fold over and sew as instructed above.
So there you have it! Pretty easy way to make yourself a cropped, 3/4 length sleeve cardigan from your Lane Raglan pattern. And if you didn’t hear, the Lane Raglan has gotten (another) update! The first update included a hood and thumbholes. You can see our versions of that update in this blog post. As if it wasn’t pretty much the most awesome pattern ever, the new update includes options for a curved hemline, elbow length sleeves, 3/4 length sleeves, and a long hemmed sleeves with no band. The upper chest area and sleeves were slimmed down and the shape of the raglan sleeves were changed slightly for a more flattening shape. Also, there is the ability to make a full bust adjustment.
Your favorite skirt series is back today with a living interpretation of stunning painting by Vladimir Volegov. After you have enjoyed our Living Skirt Art, be sure to visit Cassie at Little Lizard King this month’s guest contributor, and see which piece of skirt art Cassie chose to replicate. You won’t be sorry you did! (Sneak peek at the end of the post.)
Usually we turn to the masters of long ago for inspiration for our Living Skirt Art series. But today, our featured artist is still living. Vladimir Volegov was born in Russia and began painting at the tender young age of 3! From painting portraits in the streets of Barcelona to exhibitions in Russia, his home country, the paintings of Vladimir Volegov are known far and wide. After you’ve seeing his vibrant use of color and his realistic depictions of people, it’s pretty obvious why his paintings have such allure. He currently works with the American publishing house Soho Editions. His website (and complete beautiful gallery) can be viewed here.
Although many, many of Vladimir Volegov’s paintings depict females in skirts, we chose to bring his painting At The Piano to life today. Originally painted in 2008, this is an oil painting. To recreate that beautiful flowing white skirt, we refashioned two skirts into one. Aria didn’t necessarily want a white skirt, but we decided if it gets stained, or she wants a different color, we can give it a dye bath.
For the girl’s top, we hacked one of our favorite patterns, the Lane Raglan, into a cropped, 3/4 sleeve cardigan. Tutorial coming soon, really! The heavenly French Terry Fabric (Aruba Blue) is from JoAnn Fabrics. (affiliate link)
Aria is teaching herself to play the piano, and it is really a pleasure to listen to. I love to listen to her play the piano because she pours her whole heart into the piece she is playing, and it’s so moving to hear her play.
Two days ago we were recruited to play along with the Katy Perry New Year’s party going on over at Sewing Stadium. I had never heard of or seen Katy Perry, so some frantic Google searching ensued. I discovered Katy Perry is a colorful singer with a passion for fancy style. Here’s my last minute interpretation of what Katy Perry might be wearing on New Year’s Day.
Happy New Year! If you celebrated the new year Katy Perry (or any rockstar) style, today you’re going to need a hoodie and a pair of sunglasses. But, Katy being Katy, it’s not going to be just any plain old hoodie…nope! It’s going to be Katy-fied.
So what exactly does a Katy-fied hoodie look like? Well, it’s not plain, our research showed Katy doesn’t do plain. The hoodies we saw her wearing were fancy, bling-ed up, shark infested, made from fur or velvet; in a word, Katy-fied. So we asked ourselves, if Katy could sew, what patterns or fabrics would she use?
And naturally we turned to our Lane Raglan pattern, with extra options, of course for Aria. The floral fabric is from Girl Charlee. Here’s a little secret. The Lane Raglan pattern requires a yard of fabric for each fabric you’re using. Last year we discovered a way to get a Lane Raglan from 1/2 a yard by piecing the front and back pattern pieces.
This time we discovered a new way to get the front and back pieces from 1/2 a yard. If your fabric has 4 way stretch and a non directional print, simply orient the pattern pieces horizontally rather than vertically. Did you guess that’s what we did here before we explained it?
We added the hood because a superstar has to have something to hide behind after a long night like New Years Eve.
My hoodie is the Jasper Sweater by Paprika Patterns. As you can see in the photos, you can make the Jasper Sweater out of plain, un-fancy fabric, and there’s no covering up the fancy element.
All the special little details make this pattern a winner. Welt pockets, princess seams, those buttons, the hood.
And if that wasn’t enough, this pattern can be made into a dress, with a collar and epaulet. Definitely Katy worthy. I made this from blue sweatshirt fleece from JoAnn Fabrics. I’ve been living in it ever since I sewed the last stitch.
Want to see more Katy Perry fun? Follow along below:
Recently I took on the rather insane project of making 4 Marco shirts for my oldest son. He has outgrown the 2 I made him last year, and requested some more. Since I reviewed the Marco shirt pattern then, I thought I’d share things I’ve learned about making button up shirts.
Or maybe tip number 1 should be don’t attempt to sew 4 at one time! After I got started on this project, I realized I would need sewing friends to cheer me on if I was ever going to finish, so I created the hashtag #thereallybigshirtevent on Instagram. But I digress. Take it slow. Don’t expect to get this done in one hour, one day or maybe even one week!
You really want a project this detailed to be one you (and the recipient) to love when you’re finished. So make a muslin first. This part IS really quick- you only need to cut the front, back and sleeve pieces. Just whip them together and check the fit. Make adjustments, and then get onto the good fabric. (More on good fabric in a minute.)
3. pattern matching matters
Before you cut into your good fabric, take a few minutes to think about pattern matching. This is really important. Pattern pieces you really need to plan before you cut: fronts to each other, fronts to back, button placket to front, pockets.
And if you get really, really crazy about pattern matching, you can get the button placket to match up. Might need aspirin after this attempt though.
4. wide seam allowances
Be careful your seam allowances don’t get too narrow, even if your pattern recommends it. You really don’t want to go back and restitch cuffs, collar, yokes after they’ve come apart because of tiny seam allowances. Ask me how I know. Once you’re done, you’re going to want to be DONE!
5. topstitch everything
Topstitching adds a professional finish, and reinforces those seam allowances to stay in place. It also hold the seam allowances where they need to be for a clean cut while wearing.
Tools for sewing a button up shirt:
A glue stick will become your best friend. Seriously. Pins can’t hold those tiny fiddle-y pieces together half as good as glue. It won’t gum up your needle, I promise. Remember I sewed 4 at one time and experienced no gumming.
2. good quality fabric
I know I’m sounding like a broken record here, but you really want a project this in depth and detailed to last a long time. Using good quality fabric ensures longevity. When I couldn’t find a white shirting fabric good enough locally, I bought a high quality sheet with 600 thread count. I really could notice the difference between this and the cheaper quality flannel I compromised on one of the shirts.
3. rolled hem foot
Those bottom hems are tiny, and a rolled hem foot will make your job lots easier.
4. good quality pattern
A pattern that teaches you as you go, with tips and tricks from a knowledgeable author. Suggested patterns in a minute.
Tricks for sewing a button up shirt:
pattern matching doesn’t matter
“Wait a minute, you just said…” Yes, there are places pattern matching is pretty important, but there are also places you will not be able to match the pattern even if you’re a pattern matching genius. These are those pieces: yoke, cuffs, collar stand, collar.
So what to do? You have options; cut those pieces on the bias, a different direction, use fabric without a pattern, or just don’t sweat it.
2. add a tag
If you’re adding a tag to the yoke or collar stand on the inside, do this BEFORE you start sewing the pieces together, that’s the way the professionals do.
3. use contrast fabric
There are a couple of places you can sneak in fun fabric, the inside collar stand, the inside yoke and inside the cuffs. Just pay attention to which way you are attaching them so they end up on the inside. Not that’d I’d know anything about that. *cough*
4. Interfaced piece away from feed dogs
When you’re sewing two pieces together and one of them is interfaced, say the two collar pieces, place the one without interfacing down against the feed dogs when you are sewing. It will be just a little bit stretchier than the interfaced piece, but if you have it against the feed dogs, there will be no puckers when you’re finished.
5. add tiny buttons
Maybe your recipient prefers a button down collar. Just add a small button hole at the corners of the collars. Cut them open, poke through to make a mark in the desired spot, and sew on a small (smaller than 1/2 inch) button. Follow the same procedure to add a button to the button placket on the sleeve.
Tutorials for sewing a button up shirt:
If you get stuck, or you just can’t visualize the next step, try these amazing tutorials:
Beside these 4 button up shirts I sewed for my oldest son, I’ve made myself a couple of button up shirts this year. It’s getting easier with the above tips, tricks, tutorials and patterns. During the time I was sewing these 4 shirts, I became obsessed with all things button up. All ready-to-wear button ups were fair game for my studies. Mr. Skirt Fixation has been my biggest cheerleader all along. He got me to sew my first button up shirt, and always encourages me to improve. For example, he sent me this link. Then I realized just how far I have yet to go…