I promised you a tutorial on how to turn the Lane Raglan pattern by Hey June Handmade into a cropped, 3/4 length sleeve, cardigan. It’s really quite easy, so let’s get started.
First of all, you need to cut out your front pattern piece one size larger than you usually wear. The other thing you need to do before sewing is make your length adjustments. The length adjustments are really quite easy and don’t need photos to explain. Simply shorten the sleeves and the front and back pieces to the length you want them to be. Then add the cuffs and waistband as instructed in the Lane Raglan pattern instructions.
The button up front can be done two different ways, either before or after the garment is constructed. We changed it to a cardigan after sewing the Lane Raglan as instructed because we thought it made the neckband easier to deal with.
Cut the finished Lane Raglan up the front. The easiest way to do this is to lay your front pattern piece on top of the garment.
Add a piece of interfacing inside both fronts about 1” wide by the length of the front.
Fold over the interfaced part, along the edge of the interfacing, press, and edge stitch it in place.
Sew buttonholes and buttons. We chose to sew double buttonholes because we just love the sweet, vintage look of it.
If you were going to change it to a cardigan before sewing the Lane together, you would cut the front in 1/2 and apply interfacing as pictured above. The you would attach the neckband and waistband starting and ending at the fronts of the cardigan. Then, fold over and sew as instructed above.
So there you have it! Pretty easy way to make yourself a cropped, 3/4 length sleeve cardigan from your Lane Raglan pattern. And if you didn’t hear, the Lane Raglan has gotten (another) update! The first update included a hood and thumbholes. You can see our versions of that update in this blog post. As if it wasn’t pretty much the most awesome pattern ever, the new update includes options for a curved hemline, elbow length sleeves, 3/4 length sleeves, and a long hemmed sleeves with no band. The upper chest area and sleeves were slimmed down and the shape of the raglan sleeves were changed slightly for a more flattening shape. Also, there is the ability to make a full bust adjustment.
Your favorite skirt series is back today with a living interpretation of stunning painting by Vladimir Volegov. After you have enjoyed our Living Skirt Art, be sure to visit Cassie at Little Lizard King this month’s guest contributor, and see which piece of skirt art Cassie chose to replicate. You won’t be sorry you did! (Sneak peek at the end of the post.)
Usually we turn to the masters of long ago for inspiration for our Living Skirt Art series. But today, our featured artist is still living. Vladimir Volegov was born in Russia and began painting at the tender young age of 3! From painting portraits in the streets of Barcelona to exhibitions in Russia, his home country, the paintings of Vladimir Volegov are known far and wide. After you’ve seeing his vibrant use of color and his realistic depictions of people, it’s pretty obvious why his paintings have such allure. He currently works with the American publishing house Soho Editions. His website (and complete beautiful gallery) can be viewed here.
Although many, many of Vladimir Volegov’s paintings depict females in skirts, we chose to bring his painting At The Piano to life today. Originally painted in 2008, this is an oil painting. To recreate that beautiful flowing white skirt, we refashioned two skirts into one. Aria didn’t necessarily want a white skirt, but we decided if it gets stained, or she wants a different color, we can give it a dye bath.
For the girl’s top, we hacked one of our favorite patterns, the Lane Raglan, into a cropped, 3/4 sleeve cardigan. Tutorial coming soon, really! The heavenly French Terry Fabric (Aruba Blue) is from JoAnn Fabrics. (affiliate link)
Aria is teaching herself to play the piano, and it is really a pleasure to listen to. I love to listen to her play the piano because she pours her whole heart into the piece she is playing, and it’s so moving to hear her play.
Two days ago we were recruited to play along with the Katy Perry New Year’s party going on over at Sewing Stadium. I had never heard of or seen Katy Perry, so some frantic Google searching ensued. I discovered Katy Perry is a colorful singer with a passion for fancy style. Here’s my last minute interpretation of what Katy Perry might be wearing on New Year’s Day.
Happy New Year! If you celebrated the new year Katy Perry (or any rockstar) style, today you’re going to need a hoodie and a pair of sunglasses. But, Katy being Katy, it’s not going to be just any plain old hoodie…nope! It’s going to be Katy-fied.
So what exactly does a Katy-fied hoodie look like? Well, it’s not plain, our research showed Katy doesn’t do plain. The hoodies we saw her wearing were fancy, bling-ed up, shark infested, made from fur or velvet; in a word, Katy-fied. So we asked ourselves, if Katy could sew, what patterns or fabrics would she use?
And naturally we turned to our Lane Raglan pattern, with extra options, of course for Aria. The floral fabric is from Girl Charlee. Here’s a little secret. The Lane Raglan pattern requires a yard of fabric for each fabric you’re using. Last year we discovered a way to get a Lane Raglan from 1/2 a yard by piecing the front and back pattern pieces.
This time we discovered a new way to get the front and back pieces from 1/2 a yard. If your fabric has 4 way stretch and a non directional print, simply orient the pattern pieces horizontally rather than vertically. Did you guess that’s what we did here before we explained it?
We added the hood because a superstar has to have something to hide behind after a long night like New Years Eve.
My hoodie is the Jasper Sweater by Paprika Patterns. As you can see in the photos, you can make the Jasper Sweater out of plain, un-fancy fabric, and there’s no covering up the fancy element.
All the special little details make this pattern a winner. Welt pockets, princess seams, those buttons, the hood.
And if that wasn’t enough, this pattern can be made into a dress, with a collar and epaulet. Definitely Katy worthy. I made this from blue sweatshirt fleece from JoAnn Fabrics. I’ve been living in it ever since I sewed the last stitch.
Want to see more Katy Perry fun? Follow along below:
Recently I took on the rather insane project of making 4 Marco shirts for my oldest son. He has outgrown the 2 I made him last year, and requested some more. Since I reviewed the Marco shirt pattern then, I thought I’d share things I’ve learned about making button up shirts.
Or maybe tip number 1 should be don’t attempt to sew 4 at one time! After I got started on this project, I realized I would need sewing friends to cheer me on if I was ever going to finish, so I created the hashtag #thereallybigshirtevent on Instagram. But I digress. Take it slow. Don’t expect to get this done in one hour, one day or maybe even one week!
You really want a project this detailed to be one you (and the recipient) to love when you’re finished. So make a muslin first. This part IS really quick- you only need to cut the front, back and sleeve pieces. Just whip them together and check the fit. Make adjustments, and then get onto the good fabric. (More on good fabric in a minute.)
3. pattern matching matters
Before you cut into your good fabric, take a few minutes to think about pattern matching. This is really important. Pattern pieces you really need to plan before you cut: fronts to each other, fronts to back, button placket to front, pockets.
And if you get really, really crazy about pattern matching, you can get the button placket to match up. Might need aspirin after this attempt though.
4. wide seam allowances
Be careful your seam allowances don’t get too narrow, even if your pattern recommends it. You really don’t want to go back and restitch cuffs, collar, yokes after they’ve come apart because of tiny seam allowances. Ask me how I know. Once you’re done, you’re going to want to be DONE!
5. topstitch everything
Topstitching adds a professional finish, and reinforces those seam allowances to stay in place. It also hold the seam allowances where they need to be for a clean cut while wearing.
Tools for sewing a button up shirt:
A glue stick will become your best friend. Seriously. Pins can’t hold those tiny fiddle-y pieces together half as good as glue. It won’t gum up your needle, I promise. Remember I sewed 4 at one time and experienced no gumming.
2. good quality fabric
I know I’m sounding like a broken record here, but you really want a project this in depth and detailed to last a long time. Using good quality fabric ensures longevity. When I couldn’t find a white shirting fabric good enough locally, I bought a high quality sheet with 600 thread count. I really could notice the difference between this and the cheaper quality flannel I compromised on one of the shirts.
3. rolled hem foot
Those bottom hems are tiny, and a rolled hem foot will make your job lots easier.
4. good quality pattern
A pattern that teaches you as you go, with tips and tricks from a knowledgeable author. Suggested patterns in a minute.
Tricks for sewing a button up shirt:
pattern matching doesn’t matter
“Wait a minute, you just said…” Yes, there are places pattern matching is pretty important, but there are also places you will not be able to match the pattern even if you’re a pattern matching genius. These are those pieces: yoke, cuffs, collar stand, collar.
So what to do? You have options; cut those pieces on the bias, a different direction, use fabric without a pattern, or just don’t sweat it.
2. add a tag
If you’re adding a tag to the yoke or collar stand on the inside, do this BEFORE you start sewing the pieces together, that’s the way the professionals do.
3. use contrast fabric
There are a couple of places you can sneak in fun fabric, the inside collar stand, the inside yoke and inside the cuffs. Just pay attention to which way you are attaching them so they end up on the inside. Not that’d I’d know anything about that. *cough*
4. Interfaced piece away from feed dogs
When you’re sewing two pieces together and one of them is interfaced, say the two collar pieces, place the one without interfacing down against the feed dogs when you are sewing. It will be just a little bit stretchier than the interfaced piece, but if you have it against the feed dogs, there will be no puckers when you’re finished.
5. add tiny buttons
Maybe your recipient prefers a button down collar. Just add a small button hole at the corners of the collars. Cut them open, poke through to make a mark in the desired spot, and sew on a small (smaller than 1/2 inch) button. Follow the same procedure to add a button to the button placket on the sleeve.
Tutorials for sewing a button up shirt:
If you get stuck, or you just can’t visualize the next step, try these amazing tutorials:
Beside these 4 button up shirts I sewed for my oldest son, I’ve made myself a couple of button up shirts this year. It’s getting easier with the above tips, tricks, tutorials and patterns. During the time I was sewing these 4 shirts, I became obsessed with all things button up. All ready-to-wear button ups were fair game for my studies. Mr. Skirt Fixation has been my biggest cheerleader all along. He got me to sew my first button up shirt, and always encourages me to improve. For example, he sent me this link. Then I realized just how far I have yet to go…