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Key Largo Top in 3 Different Substrates!

Key Largo Top fabric comparison by Skirt Fixation

Today I’m over at Hey June Handmade sharing a tutorial on how to add ruffle sleeves to the Key Largo Top.  I’m totally honored to be there, and ruffle sleeves are so big right now (sorry, bad pun!) that you really will want to add them to all your tops!

In creating the tutorial, and falling in love with the Key Largo Top, I sewed up three of them, all in different fabric substrates!  So I want to share them all with you, including my thoughts on how each works.

Key Largo Top fabric comparison by Skirt Fixation

For the first Key Largo Top I sewed, I used Art Gallery Sage Painted Desert Night Fabric.  This is the ONLY brand of quilting cotton I’d use for apparel sewing because it’s so soft and has some drape.  But as you can see, the whole shirt ends up a little stiffer.  If you look around the neckline, you can especially see some stiffness.

Key Largo Top fabric comparison by Skirt Fixation

Please note, quilting cotton is not one of the recommended fabrics for making the Key Largo Top.  This was my muslin.  And yes, I felt comfortable enough with Hey June Patterns to sew up my muslin in expensive Art Gallery Fabric quilting cotton!  This is because I have sewn these patterns enough to know how they fit.

Key Largo Top fabric comparison by Skirt Fixation

That said, I made NO adjustments to the pattern for this first version, and it’s completely wearable and I love it!  After this one though, I added 1 inch width to each shoulder and 2 inches to the length.  You can see how the shoulder seams ended up too far in.  And even though this top is designed to be cropped, I needed the extra length because I’m 6′ tall, and that’s my standard adjustment for Hey June Patterns.

Key Largo Top fabric comparison by Skirt Fixation

The next Key Largo Top I sewed from Art Gallery Observer Voile Indigo Window Crystal Fabric.  If I could only keep one of these 3 shirts, this is probably the one I would choose!  As you can see, I added ruffles to the sleeves.  (Remember to check out my tutorial over at Hey June Handmade.)

Key Largo Top fabric comparison by Skirt Fixation

The voile is lightweight and drape-y and cool for summertime wear.  The voile is a dream to work with too.  Because all the inside edges are enclosed or finished, the issue of voile fraying is eliminated.  Voile is slightly sheer, so I’m wearing a tank underneath.

Key Largo Top fabric comparison by Skirt Fixation

The voile does wrinkle slightly by the end of the day.  Even though I sewed the same size as the 1st Key Largo, I think this version is more flatterning/slimming due to the way the fabric drapes with the curves of my body.

Key Largo Top fabric comparison by Skirt Fixation

The 3rd and final (for now!) Key Largo Top I sewed is from Art Gallery Spices Fusion Rayon Challis Paparounes Spices Fabric.  This was my 1st time working with Art Gallery Fabrics rayon.  I’ve seen the drape of this fabric described as liquid, and that word is truly accurate!  The sleeve ruffles are pure magic on this version.  It’s too bad these photos are stills and not videos!

Key Largo Top fabric comparison by Skirt Fixation

This rayon fabric seems to resist wrinkling, at least it did for me, and I wore it all day!  Rayon fabric is shifty when cutting, so you have to be super careful.  The stripes in this fabric actually helped keep track of where things were supposed to be.  One thing I noticed is that even though I used the exact same method and measurements to create the ruffles on these sleeves as the voile Key Largo Top, these ruffles end lower on my arm.  In my opinion, it’s due to the heavier weight per ounce of the rayon fabric than voile fabric.

Key Largo Top fabric comparison by Skirt Fixation

And the rayon fabric does “relax” during the day while wearing it, so it doesn’t look quite as fitted at the end of the day as at the beginning.  Also, this version will extend into fall wear because it has less breathability than rayon.  It is also slightly sheer fabric, and I’m wearing the same tank underneath.

Want to see them all side by side?  Here you go:

Key Largo Top fabric comparison by Skirt Fixation

Overall, I’m pretty excited about my 3 new Key Largo Tops!  They each have slightly different feel and look when being worn.  Now head over to Hey June Handmade so you can add ruffles to all your Key Largo Tops too!  Leave me a comment about which of these versions you like best and why.

Affiliate links are used in this post to crazy good fabric and patterns!  If you click on one of our links, you too could be the owner of some really amazing goods, at no extra cost to you.  But just possibly a few pennies in our pocket.  So we can, you know, buy more fabric and patterns ourselves!

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Lace Skirt to Trevi Top Refashion

Lace skirt refashion to a Trevi Top

In my last post I promised a full review on how I refashioned a lace skirt into the Trevi Top.

Lace skirt refashion to a Trevi Top

First of all, here’s the skirt I started with.  It’s lace (crocheted maybe?) and very pretty, but not super flattering to my figure, not long enough, and not really me as is.  So of course I had to refashion it and make it mine!

Because I was afraid the skirt would unravel once I cut into it, I tried to preserve as many of the existing seams as I could.  It seems the original makers of the skirt had the same idea because there was only 1 seam around the skirt, on one side.

The Trevi Top and Dress pattern was a perfect choice for this refashion because the arm and neck openings are bound with bias tape.  The other seams are french seams, leaving no raw edges either.  And the back placket is all enclosed on the edges as well.

Lace Skirt refashion step 1:

Lace skirt refashion to a Trevi Top

I laid out the front pattern piece lining up the bottom of the pattern piece with the hem of the skirt.  Then I carefully cut through 1 layer only across the armhole opening across the shoulder and down the neckline.

Lace Skirt refashion step 2:

Lace skirt refashion to a Trevi Top

I flipped over the front pattern piece and continued cutting the neckline opening, across the other shoulder, and back down the armhole opening, again only through 1 layer of the skirt.

Lace Skirt refashion step 3:

Lace skirt refashion to a Trevi Top

First I folded down the part of the skirt I’d cut out for the front.  Then I laid out the back piece of the Trevi Top and Dress pattern.  I did fold in the amount allowed for the placket up the back.  Then I continued cutting up the armhole opening, across the shoulder and down the back neckline opening.  Then I flipped over the back pattern piece and cut out the other half in the same manner as the front.

Lace Skirt Refashion step 4:

Lace skirt refashion to a Trevi Top

Carefully cutting through the top layer only, I cut up the center back of the skirt which was now looking more like a top!

Lace Skirt Refashion step 5:

Lace skirt refashion to a Trevi Top

The skirt had more width than I wanted the top to have, but I didn’t want to create side seams to take out some of that width after I’d worked so hard to preserve the integrity of the skirt this far!  I used the lining fabric (it was the perfect color, of course) to make both the back plackets and the bias tape for finishing both the arm and neck openings.  Once I had my placket pieces interfaced, I laid them out as you can see above, thus eliminating some of the fullness from the width and preserving the seamless construction.

Sandbridge Skirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

After this step, I continued with the instructions for the Trevi Top and Dress.  The only change I made to accommodate the original construction was making only the top button on the back placket functional, and eliminating the need for many buttonholes and cuts!

Sandbridge Skirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

I also kept the original waist tie, and by weaving it in and out of the holes at the waist level, I can have another look, slightly more fitted.

Needless to say I’m pretty pleased with this lace skirt refashion!  I only wish I had another lace skirt to play around with!

Lace Skirt to vest refashion by Skirt Fixation

Affiliate links are used in this post.  If you click, we might make a few pennies at no extra cost to you.  

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Sandbridge Skirt & Trevi Top Outfit

Sandbridge Skirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

Sandbridge Skirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

The Sandbridge Skirt is basically a dream skirt come true!  Several Indie designers have produced patterns for sewing your own jeans, but this is the first one we’ve found for a denim skirt.  And because it’s from one of our favorite pattern companies, Hey June Patterns, we’re totally enthralled.

Sandbridge Skirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

The Sandbridge Skirt has all the details of jeans, in a skirt.  The Sandbridge Skirt pattern can be sewn in 11 sizes from 2 to 22.  There are 2 possible views to sew, View A, which is a mini, and View B which I sewed.  Both views can have a raw hem like I made, or there are instructions to give the hem a more finished look.  To make this one knee length for my 6’ tall frame, I added 3 inches to the hem.

Sandbridge Skirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

 

The Sandbridge Skirt is designed to sit on the hips, and I made the size 6, expecting my body shape to still change a little due to being 5 months postpartum.  It currently sits lower than my waist, but not quite on my hips.  In the above photo, you can see the little reason it’s not fitting quite yet peeking out over my arm!  Also, it’s paired with my navy blue Seafarer top, for a more casual look.

Sandbridge Skirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

For the next Sandbridge Skirt I make, I plan to change the shape of the hem to be slightly a-line rather than narrowing at the hem as this one does.  This is simply due to the fact that I have to randomly break into a sprint to catch one child or another.  And this hemline is just a bit constricting for that type of activity.

Sandbridge Skirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

The fabric for this Sandbridge Skirt is some Richloom Ellery Floral Denim Fabric By The Yard purchased from fabric.com several years ago.   It is actually cotton duck fabric, but acts just like denim.

Sandbridge Skirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

The Sandbridge Skirt pattern is very well drafted.  Since I have sewn jeans for my sons, that gives me some experience in this type of sewing.  But I have to say the zip fly instructions are the best I’ve come across!

Sandbridge Skirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

Speaking of finished look, the inside of the Sandbridge Skirt is a thing of beauty!  I used the opportunity to use some delicious chambray to finish the waistband inside, and a little yellow grosgrain ribbon tag.

Sandbridge Skirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

As with any jean pattern, topstitching is key to making the finished product not look home made.  Once again, I find it ironic to spend hours making an article of clothing NOT look like I sewed it!  I had fun with the back pockets, and what you see here is actually my 2nd attempt, the first ended up too fancy for my liking with everything else going on with this skirt!  And those back crossed belt loops tickle me too.

Sandbridge Skirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

The other garment featured in these photos is the Trevi Top.  It is another pattern by Hey June Patterns, and has some really special details.  When this pattern was released, I immediately envisioned it in lace!  My version happens to be a skirt I refashioned, and I’ll have a full tutorial later in the week.

Sandbridge Skirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

The button up back feature is one of my favorite parts of the Trevi Top.  I kept the original tie from the waist of the skirt, and by weaving it in and out of the holes I can give the waistline a little definition if I want to.  In my opinion, it looks better belted with a long skirt, and unbelted with a shorter skirt like this.

Sandbridge Skirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

Incidentally, only the top button on this Trevi Top is functional, and I forgot to button it for this photo shoot!  This makes is easier to button up, and made the construction easier because of the lace.  Is the Sandbridge Skirt worth it?  For me it’s a definite yes!

If you’ve made it this far in this very loooong post, leave me a comment!

Affiliate links are used in this post, but look how amazing the products are that we link to!  We’re required to tell you that they are in this post, and if you click on them we just might make a few pennies to support this blogging and sewing and fabric habit of ours!

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Tips for sewing double brushed poly fabric

Tips for sewing double brushed poly fabric on a regular sewing machine

Recently I’ve had fun working with a new kind of fabric.  Double brushed poly fabric is a knit polyester fabric that has been brushed on both sides, making it super soft to wear, but a little tricky to work with.

Tips for sewing double brushed poly fabric on a regular sewing machine

Before I started sewing with double brushed poly fabric, I researched it a little bit.  I concluded that if you have a serger you will have almost no trouble sewing with double brushed poly fabric.  Since I didn’t sew either of the shirts in this post with a serger (because I don’t HAVE one!) I’ll give you some tips I’ve picked up along the way about sewing double brushed poly fabric with a regular sewing machine.

Tips for sewing double brushed poly fabric on a regular sewing machine

Double brushed poly fabric has a 4 way stretch that is greater than 100% and it has good recovery, which means it’s very forgiving to sew with.  It also has beautiful drape so there are many garments that look quite lovely sewn up with double brushed poly.

Tips for sewing double brushed poly fabric on a regular sewing machine

Quite a few seamstresses used double brushed poly fabric to make leggings, which is what I used it for my 1st time working with it.  This fabric is 96% polyester, which the name indicates, and can be a little too hot to wear as a fitted garment in the summer.  The other 4% is spandex.  Some have found that looser, breezier garments from double brushed poly fabric work great in the heat.  Personally, I’ve worn these 2 tops all summer with no trouble.

Tips for sewing double brushed poly fabric on a regular sewing machine

My biggest tip for sewing with double brushed poly fabric on a regular sewing machine is to use the right needle.  A new stretch or ballpoint needle will help your machine NOT skip stitches.

My 2nd tip is to use the right thread.  I had much better luck with 100% polyester thread than cotton or even a cotton/polyester blend.

My 3rd tip is to use the right stitch.  My machine has a stretch stitch which worked great for straight seams.  (You can also use a narrow zigzag stitch.)

The next tip is that if your machine starts skipping stitches (which seems to be the biggest problem when sewing with double brushed poly fabric) stop!  Rethread both the bobbin and the main thread, and try again.

Tips for sewing double brushed poly fabric on a regular sewing machine

And finally, a tip few tips for hemming double brushed poly fabric:

use a double needle (or zigzag stitch,)

a longer stitch length (I used about 3.5)

some Lite EZ-Steam II fusible tape inside the hems

I also buried the ends of the thread inside my seams so they didn’t come unraveled.  This means I had to hem the sleeves and bottom before I sewed the side seams.  But it works great, and in almost 3 months of wearing, no popped hems!

Tips for sewing double brushed poly fabric on a regular sewing machine

Pink shirt details:

Pattern source: Hey June Handmade Union St Tee

Fabric source:  Raspberry Creek Fabrics (no longer available, but a nice selection of double brushed poly fabric)

Blue shirt details:

Pattern source: Hey June Handmade Lane Raglan

Fabric source:  CaliFabrics (no longer available, but a nice selection of double brushed poly fabric)

Tips for sewing double brushed poly fabric on a regular sewing machine

Affiliate links are used in the post to some really good products!  Be warned that if you click through our links you might also be the proud owner of really awesome patterns and fabric!  And also, we might make a few pennies to be able to support this blogging habit we have!

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Santa Fe Dress

Santa Fe top turned dress by Skirt Fixation

Allegra’s summer job requires her to be on her feet in an uncomfortable uniform all day long.  So when she gets home she just wants to be comfortable in non-constricting clothes.  She described to me exactly what she wanted; a loose, flowy dress with dolman sleeves and no shaping.  Immediately my thoughts turned to the Santa Fe pattern.

Santa Fe top turned dress by Skirt Fixation

TO make the Santa Fe top into a dress, I simply measured from her shoulder to her knee, and made the pattern that long.  I kept the same angle of the A shape at the side seams, and dipped the hem down in front.  I think I ended up adding about 15 inches to the length.

For the fabric I used some super lightweight rayon jersey from the stash.  I don’t remember exactly where we sourced it, but you can find similar here: Rayon Jersey Yarn Dye Knit Grey Fabric.

Santa Fe top turned dress by Skirt Fixation

Right now the Santa Fe top is the featured pattern over at Hey June Handmade, so you can grab it for 15% off.  It’s already a steal, at full price with 6 different views.  You can see the other Santa Fe tops we’ve sewn here and our review of the pattern here.  Be prepared for a new favorite pattern!

Allegra is delighted with this Santa Fe dress.  She says it’s like wearing a cloud!  Whenever she get home, she slips into this dress for some R&R time!

Santa Fe top turned dress by Skirt Fixation

Leave us a comment below…what do you wear when you just need to relax?

Some affiliate links are used in this post to really great products!  We’ve chosen to be affiliates for them because of their awesomeness.  Be aware that if you click on one of our affiliate links, we might make a few pennies at no extra cost to you!

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Willamette Shirt Review

Willamette Shirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

Yesterday Adrianna Appl of Hey June Handmade released the Willamette Shirt.  It’s a boxy dolman popover shirt with several different options for sewing.  I made view A with sleeve cuffs.  There are also options for a cropped version or one with a waist seam and color blocking options.

Willamette Shirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

The Willamette Shirt can be made in 11 sizes from 2 to 22.  It has a boxy silhouette, which means it goes straight from the waist to the hem.  In other words, totally kind and complimentary to a body that’s birthed 8 babies…one as recent as 2 months ago!

Willamette Shirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

This pattern is a great one for an advanced beginner seamstress looking for an entry pattern into sewing woven button up shirts.  I love the Cheyenne Tunic pattern, and will continue to sew it over and over again!  But the new Willamette Shirt is a lot faster to sew…I made this one in one afternoon.  The plackets are actually facing, and the collar is one piece sandwiched between the yoke and the front, so much easier to construct.  You don’t even have to make the button and button hole, you can just sew the placket shut up higher, like I did.

Willamette Shirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

I love the pleat in the back (which is hard to see in this photo.)  I made the inverted pleat, but there are 2 other types of pleats you could make there too…all completely detailed in the pattern, of course!

Willamette Shirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

 

For the fabric, I used some Robert Kaufman lawn designed by Liesl Gibson (of Oliver + S.)  I had hoarded it for a while, and only had 2 yards.  The Willamette Shirt fabric requirements is 3 yards, but I managed to get this one from 2 yards with a tiny little pile of scraps left, as I shared in my Instagram Story!  (For reference, I made a size 8…it probably could not be done in much larger sizes.)  This lawn is very lightweight and drapey and works great to give some movement to this boxy top.  I used the navy blue color way which is mostly sold out, but Kaufman Woodland Clearing Birds in Branches Coral Fabric is still available.

Willamette Shirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

I sewed the Willamette Shirt without making a muslin with NO alterations to the pattern!  Normally this would be a pretty dumb thing to do, but since I’ve sewn so many Hey June patterns and am familiar with the way they fit, I was comfortable in doing that.  Usually I do add width to the shoulders of my Hey June patterns, but because this pattern has dolman sleeves, that wasn’t necessary either!

Willamette Shirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

One reason I sew any Hey June pattern I can is because I always learn something new from them.  For this pattern, it was the genius way the facing is constructed together with the yoke and collar.  At one point I was pretty sure I was going to have to unpick the whole thing, but kept going according to the instructions, and never had to undo and redo anything!

Willamette Shirt sewn and reviewed by Skirt Fixation

If you get your copy of the Willamette Shirt right now, it’s on sale!  I can assure you it’s worth it.

Affiliate links are used in this blog post for some amazing products.  Just so you are forewarned, if you click on one of our affiliate links, we just might make a few pennies at no extra cost to you!

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Amnesty April {Project Sew It}

Project Sew it - Amnesty April sewn by Skirt Fixation

Hello there, we’re back again with Project Sew It’s April Challenge: Dress.  (Project Sew It is a monthly inspirational sewing challenge created by Celina of Petit a Petit and Family.)  Aria and Audrey both sewed up a garment for this month’s challenge.  But not a dress.

Project Sew it - Amnesty April sewn by Skirt Fixation

We’ve given ourselves amnesty on the given garment theme for the month of April because both of us needed a different garment than a dress in our wardrobes.  And frankly, we’re both a little scared of sewing up dresses.  But later in the year there is another dress challenge, so we’ll see how we do then!

Audrey’s Amnesty April Santa Fe Top

Project Sew it - Amnesty April sewn by Skirt Fixation

The Santa Fe top by Hey June Handmade is one of my current favorite patterns.  I made 2 of these tops and wore them the first 4 months of my pregnancy almost exclusively!  And now in my postpartum body, I’m in my super comfortable, almost flattering, lovable Santa Fe tops again.  So I decided to give the 2 I made last fall a little help by sewing up another.  This time I sewed up view F with the adorable contrast sleeve inserts.

Project Sew it - Amnesty April sewn by Skirt Fixation

I made just a few changes due to personal preference.  First of all, I went down 1 size.  I do feel my other Sante Fe Tops are a little on the big side even thought the pattern is intended to get a loose fit.  And secondly, the fabric I was using has a huge stretch, and sizing down is a good idea.  I raised the neckline in the front by 1 inch.  And I also made a neck band rather than a neck binding, just for fun.  I also lengthened the sleeves out to the length of the largest size.

Project Sew it - Amnesty April sewn by Skirt Fixation

The chocolate swirl fabric is a brushed poly, which is all the current rage in the sewing community for good reason!  This is a little different than the double brushed poly I used for my Mountain Pose Pants, and my machine really struggled to sew the side seams where it was 2 layers of the brushed poly together.  Where the sleeve fabric and the brushed poly fabric are sewn together, my machine did fine.  If I had a serger, I’m sure it could handle brushed poly fabric just fine, or at least that’s what I’m telling myself because I don’t have one!

Project Sew it - Amnesty April sewn by Skirt Fixation

You can find the chocolate swirl fabric at Girl Charlee.  The solid brown is from JoAnn Fabrics, I was leery of matching the shade of brown on a computer screen, so took the fabric in hand to the store to match.  Which led to several other fabric purchases…oops!  Anyway I absolutely LOVE this Santa Fe top, and no one can see the inside where it looks like the bobbin threw up on my fabric because apparently my machine was sick of sewing this brushed poly!  I also left it unhemmed so as not to give my sewing machine a worse case of the flu, or whatever was it’s problem!

Aria’s Amnesty April Seattle Skater Skirt

Project Sew it - Amnesty April sewn by Skirt Fixation

After Allegra no longer wanted or needed the Seattle Skater Skirt Mom made for her she passed it down to me, and I left it in the closet and forgot about it because it was too big in the hips!  I recently discovered that it fit me though, and have been wearing it a lot (because POCKETS!), so when this month’s challenge came, because I really don’t wear dresses, or like to wear them that much, I decided a skirt was what I needed most, and I picked the Seattle Skater Skirt.  First because it was easy, second because it was a circle, and third because it has pockets!

Project Sew it - Amnesty April sewn by Skirt Fixation

As I was looking at the sizes, fabric choices, etc. I discovered that the Seattle skirt can be made with a woven fabric! (Funny the things you can learn when you read stuff properly…)  Of course you still have to use knit fabric for the waistband.  I went with this nice fabric that has purple embroidered flowers on it from our stash!  It happens to match the top I made for the February challenge perfectly!

Project Sew it - Amnesty April sewn by Skirt Fixation

This skirt was super fun to make, and the only change I had to make was to adjust the circle to a little less than a circle because I wanted to add length to the skirt (I’m almost as tall as Mom now!) and the fabric wasn’t wide enough to make a full circle.  So it’s about 2 inches short of a full circle, still very full, and longer too.  It still has a nice spin to it though.

Project Sew it - Amnesty April sewn by Skirt Fixation

Anyway, I had a lot of fun making this Seattle Skater Skirt, it went really fast, and I didn’t have to unpick anything!  I plan on wearing this a lot, and I’m happy to have a new addition to my wardrobe.

We’ll see you later for next month’s Project Sew It.  We’ll just say we are excited about the theme and won’t be taking another amnesty month!

Affiliate links are used in this post because these are products we use and love.  And we think you should try them too!  So if you click on one of our affiliate links, we just might make a penny or two.  Consider yourself warned!

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Sewing for Tweens – Pattern Choices

Sewing for Tweens: pattern advice from Skirt Fixation

Today we’re going to share some things we’ve learned about sewing for tweens.  We’re going to focus on pattern choices; what’s available, what they’ll wear!  You can also check out our thoughts on fabric choices over at the Cali Fabrics blog, later next week.

We’re joining the Growing Up Handmade blog tour.  It’s all about handmade clothing for tweens.  This is the age when my kids really start to express themselves.  Their unique style begins to shine.  I have 2 kids in this age category, so it was fun for all of us to plan and sew up 7 items for them to add to their wardrobes.  Yes 7!  That’s quite a lot of things to talk about, which is why this post is going to focus on patterns for tweens, and another post will focus on fabrics for tweens.

Sewing for Tweens: pattern advice from Skirt Fixation

First of all, we sewed up black themed outfits.  While kids of this age don’t clamor to be dressed in matching clothes, they still tolerate coordinated ones.

Sewing for Tweens: pattern advice from Skirt Fixation

There are definitely less patterns for boys in the sewing world than for girls.  So patterns for tween boys are even scarcer!  After looking through all my patterns for boys, I decided to buy 2 new patterns for Thomas’ black outfit.  The t-shirt is the Lennon Tee by Shwin & Shwin, a pattern designed specifically for tween boys.  It’s a fast and easy sew, and comes in sizes XS to XXL which is a 26” chest to 33.5” chest.  We made view A, the plain Tee, but there are 3 more versions we’ll be trying out.  We sewed a size L for Thomas.

Sewing for Tweens: pattern advice from Skirt Fixation

His pants are the Adventure Cargo Pants and Shorts by Pattern Emporium.  This pattern is very detailed, but not hard to sew.  There are so many different options for pockets, and pants and waistband and flies, that it’s a good idea to plan out exactly what you want first.  Thomas and I went over each option carefully and he told me exactly what he wanted.  The Adventure Cargo Pants can be made in sizes 2 to 14.  This was my muslin pair, and I made size 14 for Thomas, but the waist was 4 inches too big!  Good thing it has waistband elastic and he always wears a belt.  We added belt loops to these pants, made a zip fly, and allllllll the pocket options!

Sewing for Tweens: pattern advice from Skirt Fixation

Annie is just starting to go into tween sizes.  She also is starting to put in more requests for certain items or details or patterns.  For the black theme, Annie got a mash up of 2 of her favorite girl tween patterns, the Camden Raglan by Hey June Handmade (affiliate link) and the Uptown Downtown Dress by Sew Straight and Gather.  You could also use this tutorial to do the same thing.

Sewing for Tweens: pattern advice from Skirt Fixation

Annie particularly loves the pockets which come from the bottom half of the Uptown Downtown Dress and the shoulder stripes which come from the Camden Raglan on top in this dress.  The fabric is bamboo rayon from CaliFabrics, a perfect lightweight and soft fabric for summer.  The Camden Raglan can be made in sizes 6-16, and the Uptown Downtown Dress can be made in sizes 2-14.

Sewing for Tweens: pattern advice from Skirt Fixation

For the next set of outfits, we actually went closer to matching than coordinating, but when it’s camo, who will notice?

Sewing for Tweens: pattern advice from Skirt Fixation

For Thomas we used the same patterns, because they worked out so well.  On these I adjusted the waist area and took out 2 inches for this second pair of Adventure Cargos Pants.   This kid is actually very lucky that I sew for him because RTW (ready to wear) clothing does N.O.T. fit his tall and lanky frame!

Sewing for Tweens: pattern advice from Skirt Fixation

The fabric is real, true Carhartt canvas from Cali Fabrics.  He’s pretty pumped about a real pair of Carhartts…that fits!  We promise a post really soon about how amazing it is!  And the desert camo jersey fabric from Cali Fabrics is perfect for t-shirts.

Click on the links below to see our reviews of other patterns we have sewn in tween boy sizing:

Ethan Shirt by Sis Boom

Big Little Wild Things vest by Twig & Tale

Classic Chinos by PeekABoo Pattern Shop

Which Way Out Jacket by Fishsticks Designs

Knight Hoodie by Charming Doodle

Newsboy Cap by Waffle Patterns

Small Fry Skinny Jeans by Titchy Threads

Everyday Tie by Made Everyday

And 2 that are next up on our sewing list:

Spring Showers Jacket by E&E Patterns

Parachute Polo and Sweatpants by Oliver+S

 

For Annie’s camo outfit, we planned a look that uniquely expresses who she is!  Girly and tomboy all mixed together in one.  She loves to dress up and look nice with a cute hairdo styled by one of her teenage sisters.  And she also loves to tear around in the woods with her brothers, playing hide and seek.

Sewing for Tweens: pattern advice from Skirt Fixation

 

We made her the Laramie Shirt by Hey June Handmade (affiliate link) using the most amazing Indigo Ranchero Rayon Chambray from Cali Fabrics.  The Laramie Shirt is the little sister pattern of the Cheyenne Tunic, and you KNOW how much we love the Cheyenne Tunic around here!  It is just as wonderful of a pattern, in sizes 6-16.  Plus there is an extra option for a dress, which we’ve already promised to make for Annie.  We made 2 changes to the Laramie Shirt pattern, we added the ruffle down the front by cutting out 2 extra button plackets at 2x the normal length along the selvedges of the fabric.  Then we gathered them and sewed them inside the button placket as we topstitched it in place.  The other change was to make short sleeves, but still add the cuff and placket from the 3/4 sleeve option.  We had to make the cuff a little narrower in width and gather the sleeve a little bit to fit accordingly.  Plus we added 2 buttons instead of one on the cuffs.  For the girly factor!

Sewing for Tweens: pattern advice from Skirt Fixation

Annie loves pencil skirts, and this one is the Jocole Girls Pencil Skirt which can be made in sizes doll and newborn to 14.  The only change we made was to add a pair of shorts underneath so Annie can stay covered during those rambunctious games of hide and seek with her brothers in the woods.

Click on each link below to read our reviews of other patterns we’ve sewn in tween girl sizing:

Polina Peplum by Coffee & Thread

Ila Dress by Coffee & Thread

Uptown Downtown Dress by Sew Straight and Gather

Miss Marlene from the Naeh Connection Shop

Molly Jacket by Violette Field Threads

Girl’s Yoga A-line Skirt by Jocole

Aster Cardigan by LBG Studio

Wild Things Vest by Twig & Tale

Longihood from the Naeh Connection Shop

City Park Tee by Hey June Handmade

Cabana Swim Bottoms by Peekaboo Pattern Shop

Just Keep Swimming Rashguard by The Wolf and the Tree

Classic Malliot by Call Ajaire

Slim Trousers by Lil Luxe Collection

#106 by Thread Faction

Rachel by Modkid

Whew!  If you’re still with us, please visit all the other great moms who are sewing for their tweens on this blog tour.  I’ve picked up so many helpful tips!

Monday – April 17th
Handmade Boy  |  Paisley Roots   |  Cucicucicoo: Eco Sewing & Crafting

Tuesday – April 18th
Beri Bee Designs   |   Phat Quarters   |  Sewing By Ti   |   Sew and Tell Project

Wednesday – April 19th
Courtney Zadik   |   Rebel & Malice   |   Vicky Myers Creations

Thursday – April 20th
Pattern Revolution   |  

And enter the giveaway too!  It’s a great one.  Plus if you’re sewing for tween, link up here, for another chance to win some great prizes.
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Sewing for Tweens: pattern advice from Skirt Fixation

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Free Patterns for March {Project Sew It}

Skirt Fixation sews up free patterns for Project Sew It

For March’s Project Sew It challenge, both Aria and Audrey sewed up FREE patterns for meeting the “bottoms” project.  (Project Sew It is a monthly inspirational sewing challenge created by Celina of Petit a Petit and Family.)

Skirt Fixation sews up free patterns for Project Sew It

Audrey’s Free Pattern Make:

Today’s post makes me really, really happy!  You see, about 6 years ago I had to throw away my favorite pair of yoga pants.  They were the only pair I’d ever had, I slept in them every single night, and they’d developed holes in some very conspicuous places.  But I’m sure you’ve had a favorite garment and know how hard this was for me, right?  Well, these specific yoga pants had lasted me about 10 years which probably justified the $80 I paid for them from a specialty tall company.  But since then I’ve been too cheap to put out another $100 bucks (price has gone up!!!) and have missed them ever since.

That all changed when Hey June Handmade published the Mountain Pose Pants pattern.  Did I mention it is a free pattern?  Yes.  I’m a huge fan of Hey June patterns as anyone who has been around her any time knows!  It’s the quality and professional results that you can achieve by sewing these patterns.

Skirt Fixation sews up free patterns for Project Sew It

For other tall ladies who want to know, the inseam of the Mountain Post Pants is 32”, and at the recommendation of Adrianna (the designer behind Hey June Handmade) I split up the additional 4” I needed to reach my 36” inseam by adding 2” at the knee on the shorten/lengthen line and 2” at the hem by continuing the flair at the bottom.  You may notice I didn’t hem these pants…I’m waiting to see if the double brushed poly fabric shrinks any more before hemming…or maybe I’m just reveling in a pair of yoga pants that are too long!!!

Skirt Fixation sews up free patterns for Project Sew It

And then there is the fabric I used.  If you have your ear tuned to the sewing world, you’ve heard lots and lots of chatter about double brushed poly knit fabric.  I wanted to know what all the fuss was about and ordered some wine colored double brushed poly knit from CaliFabrics.  In all the reviews I’ve read about double brushed poly, the author comments that they’d like to wrap themselves up in the fabric it’s so soft.  So I figured this fabric might make me a good pair of yoga pants to sleep in.  Let me tell you in a word: YES!

So now you know why this post makes me so happy…I’ve regained my favorite pair of yoga pants, possibly even better than the original pair due to the double brushed poly fabric.

Aria’s Free Pattern Make:

This month I was wanting to go with an easy pattern, partly because we have been pretty busy so I didn’t get around to starting my skirt until pretty late, and partly because next month is will probably be doing a bit more complicated pattern.

Skirt Fixation sews up free patterns for Project Sew It

I decided on Melly Sew’s Easy T-Shirt Skirt Tutorial because I wear the skirt Mom made me all the time! I started with a t-shirt my older brother no longer wanted.  This tutorial is SUPER easy! I had a lot of fun, partly because I didn’t even have to rip anything, and I was able to do it completely by myself!

Skirt Fixation sews up free patterns for Project Sew It

The hardest part about this skirt was probably the waistband because of the amount of stretching I had to do while sewing it.  I made a few changes to it as well.  I made the waistband a little wider so I can wear it lower down instead of on my waist, and I made the pockets deeper.  I always go for deeper pockets!  The pocket fabric is Birch Organic’s flight leftover from this dress.   Anyway, I’m really glad I made it and I will be wearing it all the time!

See you next month for the dress challenge…both of us are feeling really challenged even thinking about it!  Also, affiliate links are used in this post for really awesome products you should try…we love them and think you will too, that’s why we’ve included the links.  But legal powers that be want you to know we might make a few pennies if you click one of our affiliate links…

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Blouses for February {Project Sew It}

Project Sew It February challenges sewn by Skirt Fixation

Today Aria and Audrey are sharing our makes for the Project Sew It February prompt – blouse.  (Project Sew It is a monthly inspirational sewing challenge created by Celina of Petit a Petit and Family.)  Audrey took the opportunity to treat herself to something she’s never had before, and Aria added a much needed item to her wardrobe.  Here they are with their makes.

Audrey’s Flannel Cheyenne Tunic:

Flannel Cheyenne tunic sewn by Skirt Fixation

Well once again I am not modeling my own clothing, but hopefully next month I will be!  For February’s blouse prompt, I turned to my favorite button up pattern and made myself a flannel Cheyenne tunic.  I can’t remember ever having a flannel shirt in my life, and I am absolutely in love with how this one turned out!  I CANNOT wait to be able to try it on myself!

Flannel Cheyenne tunic sewn by Skirt Fixation

I sewed the Cheyenne Tunic in the popover view B.  I adore the fit of the first Cheyenne tunic I made, and knew no fit adjustments would be needed for this flannel version.

Flannel Cheyenne tunic sewn by Skirt Fixation

For the fabric, I fell in love with this Robert Kaufman mustard and gray flannel fabric that I found at Raspberry Creek Fabrics.  It sewed up like a dream because it’s a very stable flannel.

Flannel Cheyenne tunic sewn by Skirt Fixation

I turned the button placket, pocket and back yoke pieces on the bias like a true flannel check shirt.  It think it adds so much awesomeness to this Cheyenne!  Last time I used voile for the sewing this version of the Cheyenne tunic, my maternity version is from a chambray, and this one is flannel which I think speaks very well to the versatility of this pattern.

Flannel Cheyenne tunic sewn by Skirt Fixation

Aria told me that this flannel Cheyenne Tunic is very warm.  The wind was blowing and it was a cold day when we took these photos, but she said she couldn’t feel the wind through the shirt!  Now by the time I can probably wear it, summer will be upon us and I will have to wait for fall weather, but at least I’m prepared!

Aria’s Drapey Rayon Seafarer:

Seafarer top sewn by Skirt Fixation

I really enjoyed making this month’s challenge! It was a SUPER quick sew, and I was able to do it in one day! I have made the Seafarer once before, but it was with a heavy weight knit.  I still wear it too, but recently Allegra gave me one of the Seafarers Mom made for her (not blogged!)  I love it!  One of my favorite parts about it is it is a light weight knit and a larger size, thus making pretty drapey and super comfortable!

Seafarer top sewn by Skirt Fixation

I was looking for light weight fabrics when I came across this super pretty purple Sew Classic Spandex Knit Fabric from JoAnn Fabrics!  It turns out we have nearly four yards of it! (Hopefully I can make something else out of it!)

Seafarer top sewn by Skirt Fixation

The most difficult part of this was the neckband. I tried to sew it on the first time, but i didn’t stretch it anywhere near enough, so I had to unpick it, *sigh*, and mom helped me pin it.  After that everything went really smoothly!

Seafarer top sewn by Skirt Fixation

This Seafarer Top is definitely my best attempt at sewing with light weight knits!  I’m hoping to do  more with lighter weight knits and looking forward to the next challenge!

Project Sew It February challenges sewn by Skirt Fixation

Affiliate links are included in the post for fabric and patterns we REALLY love!  If you click on one of them, you just might end up owning some fantastic products too…and we might earn a few pennies at no extra cost to you.