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Polina Peplum and French Terry Ila

Polina Peplum sewn by Skirt Fixation

Coffee + Thread pattern tour

We are so excited to be a part of the Coffee + Thread patterns blog tour.  As you might know, we love Olga’s patterns, and we’ve sewn up both the Antalya dress and the Elena dress before.  For the tour, we would have loved to sew either one of those 2 dresses again, but we chose to try 2 of her other patterns, the Polina Dress and the Ila Dress.  With Olga’s permission, we decided to “hack” both of these patterns.

Polina Peplum sewn by Skirt Fixation

The Polina Dress is a darling vintage inspired dress with several options.  We chose to make Annie a peplum length dress by using the circle skirt option and shortening it to peplum length.  Annie loved and wore the last peplum we made for her to death, so we knew this would be a hit too.

Polina Peplum sewn by Skirt Fixation

The only other change we made to Polina Dress pattern to make it a peplum length was to omit the part of the slit that extends onto the skirt…just for ease of sewing.

Polina Peplum sewn by Skirt Fixation

The other major change we made to the Polina Dress pattern was to move the frill over to the edge of the bodice to become a butterfly sleeve.  We just sandwiched the frill between the bodice and the lining at the sleeve, and presto…butterfly sleeves!

Polina Peplum sewn by Skirt Fixation

The inside of this Polina Peplum is fully lined on the bodice part.  It is seriously as gorgeous on the inside as on the outside!

Polina Peplum sewn by Skirt Fixation

Because we felt it suited the feeling of the peplum length better, we opted to make ribbon ties instead of self fabric ties.  They just skim the bottom of the peplum when tied, and can be tied in either the front of the back.

Polina Peplum sewn by Skirt Fixation

The fabric came from my stash…I think I got it at Walmart several years ago, and couldn’t resist it’s vintage vibes for this vintage inspired pattern!  The large brown buttons up the back were harvested off a dress bought for $2 from the thrift store just for it’s buttons!

Polina Peplum sewn by Skirt Fixation

We all think this Polina Peplum ended up perfectly!  As it was being sewn, I wasn’t at all sure it was going to be true to the vision in my head, and at one point was sure it was going to be destined for the trash!  But Annie loves it and we recently made her a pencil skirt that matches perfectly.

French Terry knit Ila Dress sewn by Skirt Fixation

The other Coffee + Thread pattern we made is an Ila Dress.  We made several changes to the pattern too, to make it what Annie wanted.  First of all, the Ila Dress is recommended for woven fabrics and we used French Terry Fabric-African Violet from JoAnn Fabrics. (affiliate link)  Because of the extra stretchiness of knit fabric, we omitted the back zipper and the seam on the back, just cutting it out on the fold minus the seam allowance.

French Terry knit Ila Dress sewn by Skirt Fixation

Due to Annie’s height, we lengthened the dress by 4 inches.  But we do find Coffee + Thread patterns to be a truer fit to Annie’s size than most patterns.

French Terry knit Ila Dress sewn by Skirt Fixation

You might notice we did a little something extra to the center panel.  To add the ruching, we just cut out the center panel at twice the length and gathered the edges before sewing the front bodice together.  And we had to use that same precious Art Gallery Priory Square Jersey Knit Cottagely Posy Emerald Fabric (affiliate link) for the hidden pockets too.

French Terry knit Ila Dress sewn by Skirt Fixation

We used White Sheer-knit Fusible Interfacing (affiliate link) on the yoke, and made sure to attach the interfaced yoke to the front of the dress.  Then we graded the seam allowances before sewing on the other yoke, due to the thickness of the french terry fabric.  To keep the inside yoke where it belongs, we stitched in the ditch, catching the 2nd yoke in place on the inside.  It all worked out very well, and we can see making a lot more knit Ila dresses in the future.

French Terry knit Ila Dress sewn by Skirt Fixation

Annie sure is happy with this summer dress.  She wanted a “play dress” for summer, and says this is perfect!  With the added length, she should be able to throw on a pair of leggings and a cardigan and wear it well in to the fall and winter.

French Terry knit Ila Dress sewn by Skirt Fixation

Annie wants me to note that she fixed her hair special for the Ila Dress photo shoot.  She spent over an hour braiding it into many, many tiny braids and then slept on them overnight.  She thought the waves were the coolest thing ever!  It’s so cute how she’s developing her own sense of taste and style.

French Terry knit Ila Dress sewn by Skirt Fixation

Now be sure to check out all the other stops on the Coffee + Thread blog tour…you’ll be so inspired.  Also all Coffee + Thread patterns are on sale during the tour.  And there is a HUGE giveaway!

April 10
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Eleena Dress Review

Eleena dress sewn by Skirt Fixation using floral radiograph fabric she designed!

Eleena dress sewn by Skirt Fixation using floral radiograph fabric she designed!

Yesterday I rolled out my version of the Eleena Dress.  Today I have the privilege of participating in the Eleena Pattern blog tour.  My friend Olga, who designed this pattern, asked me to join the tour and I gladly said yes!

Eleena dress sewn by Skirt Fixation using floral radiograph fabric she designed!

The Eleena dress is a 1960s inspired A-line dress with an inverted pleat in the front and an invisible zipper in the back.  I LOVE that deep inverted pleat!  There are 3 different sleeve options, and I’ve seen it made beautifully with no collar also.  It can be made in 11 sizes from 2 to 12.   For Annie, I made the 6 in width and the size 12 plus 2.5 inches in length.  I also straightened the curve of the hem out a little to accommodate the border print of the fabric.  I used the directions for making the front piece continuous as well due to the nature of a border print fabric.

Eleena dress sewn by Skirt Fixation using floral radiograph fabric she designed!

The Eleena dress instructions are pretty easy to follow, but if you get lost (like I did at one point due to altering the front piece) just contact Olga, and she’ll walk you through it like she did for me.  I have to say the invisible zipper turned out very, very invisible, due to her instructions and my invisible zipper foot.  The illustrations for the instructions are drawn rather than photographs.

Eleena dress sewn by Skirt Fixation using floral radiograph fabric she designed!

I did run into a few problems while making the Eleena dress, but they were mostly due to late night sleepy sewing and the other constraints mentioned above.  Overall, I think this pattern is worth the money (it’s on sale right now on sale for $7.00 (regular price $9.00) through March 7th, 11:59 EST)  And be sure to scroll to the bottom to enter to win 2 patterns from Coffee + Thread and some fabric too!

Eleena dress sewn by Skirt Fixation using floral radiograph fabric she designed!

I’ve been mentioning the fabric I used in a special way because I designed it!  I have always loved floral radiographs (x-rays of flowers) perhaps because they resemble silhouettes.  For my first foray into fabric design, I am collaborating with Albert Koetsier to bring some of his stunning floral radiographs to fabric.

Eleena dress sewn by Skirt Fixation using floral radiograph fabric she designed!

I knew I wanted to create a border print as there are so many design options when working with them.  And it was especially appropriate for flowers.  I can see this as pillows, skirts, curtains, quilt borders, and of course, dresses!  I designed this fabric to be large scale and make a huge impact!  This is just the first design I created, so stay tuned.

Special instructions

Because of the limitations of printing your design on fabric, I have some special instructions about ordering this fabric.  When you load the page, you will probably not see anything on the fabric swatch to the right.  You need to change the amount of fabric you are ordering from Fat Quarter to Yards.  Then the border print will appear on the fabric swatch.  The pattern repeats every yard.  For reference, I needed 2 yards to make the Eleena Dress.

Eleena dress sewn by Skirt Fixation using floral radiograph fabric she designed!

I used basic cotton fabric to make the Eleena Dress.  It is very good quality and holds the inverted pleat beautifully!  However, this fabric can be ordered on 26 different kinds of fabric from canvas to knits.  I have personally felt each one of these fabrics and found them to be of very good quality.  I am also impressed with the customer service.

Eleena dress sewn by Skirt Fixation using floral radiograph fabric she designed!

Thanks for stopping by.  Let me know if you make something with my fabric, I can’t wait to see others creating with it!

Here’s the Eleena dress pattern tour…check them all out!

 

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Eleena dress sewn by Skirt Fixation using floral radiograph fabric she designed!

Dress Pattern:  Eleena Dress by Coffee & Thread

Fabric: Floral Radiograph Border Print designed by ME!

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A Mix {Signature Style}

Signature Style sewn by Skirt Fixation

The final challenge of Project Run & Play is “Signature Style.”  So what is my signature sewing style?

Signature Style sewn by Skirt Fixation

Sewing is my creative outlet, and also an educational enterprise.  I’m always challenging myself to try new things as well as improve old techniques.  A mix of old and new, a mix of black and white, a mix of me and others.

Signature Style sewn by Skirt Fixation

To begin with Annie’s look.  It’s pretty well established that I love sewing for this girl.  Tomorrow I will have a complete review on the dress pattern, the Eleena Dress, a new pattern from Coffee + Thread.  (And you’ll be able to enter to win 2 patterns and some fabric!)

Signature Style sewn by Skirt Fixation

For this very special occasion, I designed my own fabric and had it printed by My Fabric Designs.  How much more signature can it get than sewing a garment with fabric I’ve designed?  I am collaborating with Albert Koetsier to bring some of his stunning floral radiographs to the fabric world.  I promise a full review on the fabric tomorrow as well.

In summary:

Dress Pattern:  Eleena Dress by Coffee & Thread

Fabric: Floral Radiograph Border Print designed by ME!

Signature Style sewn by Skirt Fixation

My very first boy sewing was for David.  After that first rush of adrenaline at the success of sewing something for a boy, I never looked back.  This boy is full of life and never backs down for anything!

Signature Style sewn by Skirt Fixation

I used real leather for the elbow patches, toggle, hood binding and shoulder accents.  Right now he has to roll the sleeves up, but hopefully that will mean it will last until next year.  I lined the jacket with quilt batting to keep it extra warm.

Signature Style sewn by Skirt Fixation

The lining is very soft, leftover from Allegra’s orchestra dress.  Of course he had to have a newsboy cap, like his big brother.

Signature Style sewn by Skirt Fixation

In Summary:

Coat Pattern: Downtown Duffle Coat by Peekaboo Pattern Shop

Coat Fabric: Wool Plaid from Hancock Fabrics, no longer available online (but huge savings on selected products right now at HancockFabrics.com.)

Hat Pattern:  Free Newsboy Cap from Waffle Patterns modified to fit smaller head

Hat Fabric:  Sew Classic Bottomweight Classic Twill Solid Fabric – Black from JoAnn’s

Signature Style sewn by Skirt Fixation

Baby, oh baby!  This big eyed beauty is a blessing to us all.  He’s just as sweet as he looks.  His jacket started out as a sweater.  I scaled down and modified the Downtown Duffle Jacket, and lined it with black twill bottom weight to try and fortify the sweater fabric a bit.  Inside the hood is a fleece remnant from Annie’s quilt.

Signature Style sewn by Skirt Fixation

Instead of putting quilt batting inside his jacket, I decided to make a removable, reversible vest.  Using suede lined sherpa.  And snaps.  Remember what I said about challenging myself to try new things?  Whew!  It snaps in and out of the jacket with a second set of snaps inside the jacket.

Signature Style sewn by Skirt Fixation

And HE had to have a newsboy cap to match his big brothers too, of course!  Want to make your own vest like this?  Tutorial coming soon.

Coat Pattern: Downtown Duffle Coat by Peekaboo Pattern Shop

Coat Fabric (outer):  Upcycled Sweater with large cables

Coat Fabric (inner): Sew Classic Bottomweight Classic Twill Solid Fabric – Black from JoAnn’s

Vest Fabric:  Luxury Faux Fur-Sherpa Suede Gray from JoAnn’s

Hat Pattern:  Free Newsboy Cap from Waffle Patterns modified to fit small head

Hat Fabric: Wool plaid remnant from the stash

Signature Style sewn by Skirt Fixation

So there you have it!  A mix.  I tried to keep it cohesive by limiting my color palate to black and white with a smidgen of red here and there.  It’s classic, it’s challenging, it’s new and old, it’s me.

If you haven’t already, be sure to go over to Project Run & Play to see all the Signature Style entries in the link up.  And don’t miss the contestant Signature Style creations either.

Affilite links are used in this post.

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Antalya Dress Review

Antalya dress sewn by Skirt Fixation for Project Run & Play

Antalya dress sewn by Skirt Fixation for Project Run & Play

Now it’s time to tell you more about my girl look for my All That Glitters sew along entry.  To be honest, a glittery, sparkly girl look is much easier than a boy look!  Here’s the outfit details again:

Dress Pattern:  Antalya Dress by Coffee & Thread

Dress Fabric: Wild & Free Knit Midnight Roof  designed by Maureen Cracknel for Art Gallery Fabrics (affiliate link)

Leggings Pattern:  Slim Trousers by Lil Luxe Collection

Leggings & Fingerless Gloves Fabric: Stretch Panne Velvet Velour Soft Gold Fabric from fabric.com (affiliate link)

Antalya dress sewn by Skirt Fixation for Project Run & Play

A while back I won the Antalya dress designed by my sewing friend Olga of Coffee & Thread.  Olga is an amazing lady, from her patterns to her photography, I feel like a student whenever I interact with her.  That’s what it’s like sewing the Antalya dress, I learned a few new things even though I’ve been sewing for more years that I can remember!

Antalya dress sewn by Skirt Fixation for Project Run & Play

The Antalya dress can be made in 12 sizes from 12-18 months all the way to 12 years.  It has dolman sleeves, gathering, an exposed zipper, and piping on the curved side panels.  Swoon!

Antalya dress sewn by Skirt Fixation for Project Run & Play

On the advice of Rachel who blogs over at Stitched Together, I lengthened the Antalya dress like she did when she sewed hers.  Our kids seem to have the same body shape, and I wanted the dress to last through the summer.  This is a very easy modification of the pattern as the skirt pieces are rectangular and length can be added to those rectangles.  For reference, I cut I size 7 width, size 12 length and added 4 inches!

Antalya dress sewn by Skirt Fixation for Project Run & Play

This pattern has drawn illustrations, and they are very thorough.  At no time during the construction of the dress was I confused and didn’t make any mistakes, which speaks to it’s competence.  I also used the linked tutorial for making my own piping, because this dress needed gold glittery piping!

Antalya dress sewn by Skirt Fixation for Project Run & Play

I used this exposed zipper (just like on this skirt) from Amazon:

Let me tell you, Olga’s instructions for installing this zipper result in a beautiful, finished zipper every time.  The  pattern also includes instructions for a button placket instead of a zipper.  I will definitely be making another Antalya dress in the future, and more Coffee + Thread patterns too.

Antalya dress sewn by Skirt Fixation for Project Run & Play

I used Wild & Free Knit Midnight Roof fabric designed by Maureen Cracknel for Art Gallery Fabrics.  Like all Art Gallery Fabrics I’ve used it’s soft, supple, and a dream to sew with.  I chose it because of the metallic accents.  This fabric was sitting in my stash for a little while, and when I saw the Project Run & Play themes, I just knew it was time to use it!  I seem to turn to Art Gallery Fabrics for the material for all special dresses I make for this girl!

Antalya dress sewn by Skirt Fixation for Project Run & Play

The leggings are Lil Luxe Collection’s Slim Trousers.  You can read my review and see the other pair I made in this blog post.

Antalya dress sewn by Skirt Fixation for Project Run & Play

The fingerless gloves I made by modifying the Scarlett Legwarmers pattern.  They didn’t turn out as great as I had hoped.  In my mind I had pictured them more fitted like the ones Courtney made last week for her Cosplay outfit.  But I did take photos for a tutorial as I went, so let me know if you’re interested and I’ll write it up.  The buttons on the fingerless gloves are glitter covered.  The glitter got everywhere when I was sewing them on, with gold thread, of course!

Okay, that’s it for my All That Glitter looks.  Head on over to Project Run & Play to see all the rest of the sew along.  And did you see what the contestants sewed?