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Ruffled Canvas Jacket

Modern Chloris sewn by Skirt Fixation

Modern Chloris sewn by Skirt Fixation

Instead of making you wait for all the details about everyone’s favorite piece from our Modern Chloris mini wardrobe collection, I decided to blog about the ruffled canvas jacket today for you.  You’re welcome!  Really, there will just be a pretty short tutorial, but the photos do most of the talking.  ruffled canvas jacket sewn by Skirt Fixation

I started with two things; the Modern Belle pattern by Lil Luxe Collection, and an inspiration photo from Pinterest.   Add to these 2 things the most wonderful, softest, most pliable canvas fabric EVER provided by Art Gallery Fabrics!

ruffled canvas jacket sewn by Skirt Fixation

I really really can’t say enough good things about Art Gallery Fabrics canvas.  I’ve never felt another canvas soft and pliable enough to make ruffles!  And that’s exactly what I did for the ruffled canvas jacket.

ruffled canvas jacket sewn by Skirt Fixation

Here’s the quick tutorial.  Cut out the arched side panels for the Modern Belle pattern.  Make a loooooong strip of ruffled fabric by cutting a strip of canvas 5 inches wide, folding it in half (wrong sides together) and ruffling it using your favorite method.

ruffled canvas jacket sewn by Skirt Fixation

Next, pin the ruffle to the bottom of the arched pattern piece with the ruffle’s bottom overhanging by about 1/2 inch.  Zig zag the top of the ruffle in place.  If you wish, you can add a 2nd line of straight stitching below the zig zig for security.  Cut off the edge of the ruffled strip even with the edge of the arched pattern piece.

Jacket Step2

Place the ruffled strip above the 1st ruffle, overlapping the bottom of the 2nd strip over the top of the 1st strip by about 1/2”  Repeat these steps until you get to the top of the arched pattern piece.  Making a size 6, I ended up with 7 layers of ruffles.  Continue sewing the Modern Belle pattern as instructed.  The side edges will be caught in the side seams.

JacketRuffles

At the top, I made a tiny rectangular placket and topstitched it over the top edge of the top ruffle so no raw edges would show.  Another change I made to the Modern Belle pattern were to cut the front piece not on the fold so I would be able to add a zipper.

ruffled canvas jacket sewn by Skirt Fixation

Also, I added a collar.  And the jacket is fully lined with navy sateen (leftover from Allegra’s Bistro dress.)  I used the instructions from the Downton Duffle Coat (*affiliate link) to assemble the lined jacket.

ruffled canvas jacket sewn by Skirt Fixation

Basically, this jacket is a piece of artwork which is fitting for the Modern Chloris theme which drew heavily on classical Greece.  I mean, what other era and location did so many timeless classic pieces of artwork emerge from?ruffled canvas jacket sewn by Skirt Fixation

As promised, I made a collage of flat lays to show you just how wonderfully this ruffled canvas jacket works with all the other pieces in our Modern Chloris mini collection.  Now all that’s left to do is figure out how to make one of these in my size!!!   And order some more of that luscious Art Gallery Fabrics canvas…as soon as I decide which one to choose!

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Half Apron Tutorial

Half Apron Tutorial by Skirt Fixation

Half apron tutorial by Skirt FixationHi! Allegra here! I have an easy half apron tutorial for you today! The back story is that we have always had this nice old checkered half apron that we wear when we are cooking or playing dress up, or pioneers or suchlike. I have always worn this apron, and lately I decided to make a semi-matching one for Aria. So, using some simple measurements, I created this easy half apron tutorial (WITH PICTURES, YAY) for you.

Half apron tutorial by Skirt Fixation What you will need:

A piece of fabric 36 inches wide by 29 inches long for the apron.

A piece of fabric 67 inches long by 2 inches wide. (If you want a wider waistband, then make the width be 4 inches)

ha13Note: The small square piece of fabric was for a pocket which I decided not to add.

Note: I used pretty quilting cotton from our stash.  I’m sure cotton works best here.

Half apron tutorial by Skirt FixationStep 1: Cut out your fabric.

Half apron tutorial by Skirt FixationStep 2: Around the bottom and two of the sides of the apron piece, iron over ¼ or ½ inch, depending on what size hem you want. Note: Usually, I iron down ¼ inch, and then fold it over the second time as I’m sewing. If you want to iron it over twice, though, by all means go for it!

Half apron tutorial by Skirt FixationStep 3: Sew down what you ironed.  Across the unfinished top, sew a basting or gather stitch, and gather until its 18 inches across.

Half apron tutorial by Skirt FixationStep 4: Take the 67 by 2 piece and iron over ¼ inch or smaller all the way around.

Half apron tutorial by Skirt FixationStep 5: Pin the apron front piece into the waistband piece so that the gathering is encapsulated in the waistband, and then sew it down.

Half apron tutorial by Skirt Fixation

Half apron tutorial by Skirt FixationStep 6: If you would like, sew trimming onto the bottom. I sewed some simple eyelet lace onto the back of the bottom hem.

Step 6: If you would like, sew trimming onto the bottom. I sewed some simple eyelet lace onto the back of the bottom hem.

Aria modeled her new apron, I think she likes it!

Step 6: If you would like, sew trimming onto the bottom. I sewed some simple eyelet lace onto the back of the bottom hem.Well, hope you like this half apron tutorial! Let us know what you make!

Allegra

Step 6: If you would like, sew trimming onto the bottom. I sewed some simple eyelet lace onto the back of the bottom hem.

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Circle Skirt Tutorial using Narrow Fabric

Skirt Fixation circle skirt tutorial

If you find a circle skirt tutorial on the internet, it will probably require you to use 60” wide fabric.  This makes sense because when you actually make a circle skirt, you cut a circle in the center for the waistband, and a wider circle using the whole width of the fabric for the length of the skirt.  And unless you are making a circle skirt for a girl, or you want a really short one, you have to use 60” wide fabric.  And then it ends about midi length.  So what do you do if you want a longer circle skirt or you want to use narrow fabric?  Well, there a couple of options.

First option: Cut two 1/2 circles on the edges of your fabric and sew them together at the sides.  This uses an extraordinary amount of fabric, wastes a lot, and sometimes the seams can hang longer or unevenly.  But it does accomplish the purpose.  So we found another way.

Circle Skirt Tutorial Using Narrow Fabric

Skirt Fixation circle skirt tutorial

2.  Make extensions on the sides of your fabric where the widest part of the circle will cross.  This eliminates the issue with the seams hanging uneven because the extension is not heavy.  And very little fabric is wasted.

Skirt Fixation circle skirt tutorial

This photo shows the cut lines.  You can see that without the extensions, the length of the skirt would have been much shorter!

Skirt Fixation circle skirt tutorial

And after it’s cut out.  Can you spot the extensions?  With fabric this busy, they are really hard to find!

Skirt Fixation circle skirt tutorial

Here you can see a close up of where the extension is, but it’s almost invisible on the finished skirt.  Of course if you match your patterns, this seam line will disappear entirely.  And when she spins, who would ever know?

Drop & Twirl Circle Skirt sewn by Skirt Fixation

There are so many delightful 44/45” fabrics available, and now you can make a circle skirt from them too, using our circle skirt tutorial and narrow fabric.  We chose to use this fabric from Urban Sew.  It’s called Oopsy Daisy, from Westminster fabrics, and is part of their La Dee Da line by Erin McMorris.  Right now, it’s only $6 per yard which is a screaming good deal!

Our favorite circle skirt pattern is the Drop & Twirl Circle Skirt from Jocole Patterns.  If you make it, or any Jocole pattern, be sure to link up to the Jocole and Urban Sew link party!  And enter our giveaway to win 3 patterns of your choice from Jocole and a $40 gift certificate to Urban Sew.

Combine these two things with our circle skirt tutorial for narrow fabric, and start spinning!

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DIY Ironing Board Cover

DIY ironing board cover

Last year about this time we were working on finishing our ebook.  And if we could do it over again, there is only one thing we would do differently, and that is do today’s post before photographing our step by step pictures.  That is because our old ironing board cover looked like this:

DIY ironing board cover
Pretty sad, huh?  We had read lots of DIY ironing board cover tutorials, but when we went to replace ours, we used none of them!  Deepika, from Pattern Review, replaced hers and put a photo on Instagram. Upon asking what tutorial she used, she gave this simple answer; “I just placed my old cover on top of the fabric, cut around it (you don’t need to be precise) and then used bias tape to finish the edges which also created a casing for the elastic.  Easy-peasy!
So that’s what I did.  But in keeping with the “no compromise” resolution for 2015, instead of using bias tape (because I didn’t have enough of any one kind, and I wasn’t going to compromise by tacking a bunch of different colors together!) I took the extra time to unpick off the casing from the old cover and reused it and the elastic too!  That was an easy $40 to $100 saved!

DIY ironing board cover

This fabric was in the stash, and it’s been treated with Scotchguard which makes it very nice for ironing as the water just beads up rather than soaks in.  I had the batting in my stash too, leftover from the cowboy quilt.
So this project is 100% from the stash and existing materials.  Did you notice the new button on the sidebar?  The one that says Sew My Stash 2015?  We’ve made a commitment to try to use 50% materials from our stash this year on every project we sew.  (No moratorium on fabric buying, you’ll notice!!!)  But it will help us sew through the very large and very beautiful stash of fabric we have purchased and been gifted.
How about you, does your ironing board cover need replaced?  Are you going to do it?

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How to Add a Woven Lining to the Hood of the Bimaa Sweater

How to add a woven lining to the hood of the Bimaa Sweater.

How to add a woven lining to the hood of the Bimaa Sweater.

We snagged a Bimaa Sweater pattern during the Friday Fiver over at Crafterhours, and immediately got to sewing!  Aria had a birthday recently, and so I made her a whole outfit.  That skirt will be coming soon, but for today, I want to show you the Bimaa Sweater, and explain how I added a woven lining to the hood of the Bimaa Sweater.  You see, LouBeeDoo Clothing, who makes the Bimaa, recommends avoiding the temptation of making the hood from woven material because it won’t stretch and fit over their head.  So if you want to add a woven lining to the hood of the Bimaa Sweater, you have to do it like this tutorial.

How to Add a Woven Lining to the Hood of the Bimaa Sweater

How to add a woven lining to the hood of the Bimaa Sweater.

 

Step 1: Mark a line across your hood pattern piece, about 1/4 inch above the jutting out part, as shown.

How to add a woven lining to the hood of the Bimaa Sweater.

Step 2: Cut out the section below the line from knit fabric, adding 1/4 inch to the top.  Cut out the section above the line from woven fabric, adding a 1/4 inch to the bottom for seam allowance.

How to add a woven lining to the hood of the Bimaa Sweater.

Step 3:  Sew the two pieces together.

How to add a woven lining to the hood of the Bimaa Sweater.

Proceed with the pattern directions.  You can cut the middle piece from woven fabric without following the steps above because there will be enough stretch from the knit on the hood pieces.

How to add a woven lining to the hood of the Bimaa Sweater.

I really admire all the versions of the Bimaa Sweater that I’ve seen, and can’t wait to make the cowl neck version and the shawl collar version too.  I just wish the Bimaa Sweater came in adult sizes!

How to add a woven lining to the hood of the Bimaa Sweater.

The only other change I made to the Bimaa Sweater pattern was to lengthen the cuffs.  I’m sure Aria gets her long arms from me!  When she tried on the Bimaa Sweater she loved it except the sleeves were too short, so the easiest thing was to lengthen the cuffs.  And she thinks long cuffs look better on her than short cuffs.  I tend to agree with her for larger sizes.

How to add a woven lining to the hood of the Bimaa Sweater.

So now you know how to add a woven lining to the hood of the Bimaa Sweater!  Have fun!

How to add a woven lining to the hood of the Bimaa Sweater.

 

The Bimaa Sweater is very fast and easy to sew…as long as you don’t have to go back and add sleeve length!  But even then, I made the Bimaa Sweater in just one afternoon.

How to add a woven lining to the hood of the Bimaa Sweater.The soft chocolaty brown knit is from JoAnn’s.  The Cotton + Steel hood lining is from Pink Chalk Fabrics.  The skirt…coming soon!

How to add a woven lining to the hood of the Bimaa Sweater.

Linking up here:

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Fast DIY Kimono Tutorial In 4 Easy Steps

Fast DIY Kimono Tutorial in 4 Easy Steps

Fast DIY Kimono Tutorial in 4 Easy Steps

DIY Kimono Tutorial in 4 easy steps.

During Kids Clothes Week, I made a kimono for my tween and promised a tutorial.  That’s what I have for you today, a quick and easy DIY Kimono Tutorial in 4 easy steps.  Why another DIY Kimono Tutorial, when the internet is full of them?  Mine’s easier, I promise!  How do I know this?  Well, a few weeks ago, my printer was out of ink (trust me, I’m getting there!) so I couldn’t print and make the skirt for All The Skirts that I wanted to, so I decided to try a kimono and started looking over all the tutorials out there.  Many were too complicated or confusing to even follow, but I muddled through enough of them to know there was an easier way to do it.  You see, kimonos are usually made out of some slightly sheer material like chiffon or something that frays and is hard to work with.  So the best way to do it is to make the least amount of exposed edges.  Less exposed edges means less fraying and fewer edges to have to keep from fraying.  So here’s the easy 4-step DIY Kimono Tutorial:

DIY Kimono Tutorial in 4 quick steps.

Pretty easy, huh?  But in case that leaves you with a few questions, here is a picture tutorial.

DIY Kimono Tutorial in 4 quick steps.

Begin with a rectangle of fabric double your desired finished length X width of fabric.  Fold this rectangle in half, right sides together.

DIY Kimono Tutorial in 4 quick steps.Cut an “A” shape through ONE layer only, with the top of the “A” hitting in the center of the fabric.  (Eyeball it!)

DIY Kimono Tutorial in 4 quick steps.

On one edge, measure down 12-18 inches from the fold, and start pinning there.  Pin across 12-18 inches, then down to the bottom edge of the fabric.   Repeat on other side.

DIY Kimono Tutorial in 4 quick steps.

Sew the two layers together following the pins.  Repeat on other side.

Step5

Cut away the excess close to your seam.

DIY Kimono Tutorial in 4 quick steps.

If you don’t have a serger, zigzag the edge.

DIY Kimono Tutorial in 4 quick steps.

Fold over two times to make a tiny hem around the sleeves.  Fold and hem around the bottom and up and down the front opening all in one continuous seam.

DIY Kimono Tutorial in 4 quick steps.

Strut it in your new kimono baby!  I realize my kimono fabric is a lot like Annie from The Enantiomer Project,  but I do think her kimono is the prettiest I’ve ever seen and wanted to duplicate it as close as possible.  I found my fabric at JoAnns.

DIY Kimono Tutorial in 4 quick steps.

I didn’t know I needed a kimono until I made this one!  Now I wear it a lot.

Easy DIY Kimono Tutorial

It’s a great way to be able to nurse discreetly in public…all that flow-yness is so awesome!

DIY Kimono Tutorial in 4 quick steps.

This DIY Kimono Tutorial is so fast you’ll have time to make it and a decent supper tonight…what are you waiting for?

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Ethan Vest Tutorial

vest tutorial

If you are coming over from Sew Cool For the Tween Scene, Hi and welcome!  Today we have a vest tutorial for everyone.  We promised to show you how we modified the Ethan Shirt from Sis Boom patterns to make the vest Thomas is wearing with his Ethan Shirt.  This could be done with any button up shirt pattern.

Ethan shirt

We wanted to use the Ethan Shirt pattern pieces to make the vest because we wanted it to be the same size as the Ethan Shirt we had made him so the two would fit nicely together.  So we took our pattern pieces we’d used to make the Ethan Shirt that were already cut out to the exact size we needed and folded them to make the shape we wanted for the vest.  It’s really easier to show you so here is the back piece:

vest tutorial

We placed the back yoke on top of the shirt back piece and lined them up at the armholes and pinned them in place.  Then we folded up the bottom of the back so that it ended 1/2 inch longer than we wanted the finished length.  We cut two pattern back pattern pieces of lining material.

Next we modified the front piece by folding it like this:

vest tutorial

So again we changed the bottom, but folded it into a v shape after folding up the bottom of the pattern piece to make it the right shape.  Then we folded over the edge of the shirt front to make the v shape down the front.  We cut out two of each of lining and of fabric.

For the actual sewing of the lined vest, I used this tutorial over at Shwin & Shwin.  It was perfect and looks just as good on the inside as it does on the outside!  The buttons came from a vest I made myself from Pendleton wool a long time ago.  The moths had helped themselves to the Pendleton wool, and so the vest was no longer wearable!  But the buttons were useable!

Project Run and Play 80s cartoon inspired Richie Rich by Skirt Fixation

In case you are wondering, I used the free pattern and tutorial from Sew Like My Mom to sew the bow tie.  I only shortened it to match my son’s neck size.  And watched several YouTube videos to figure that part out.  But now I know!

Be sure to go over to Sew Cool for the Tween Scene tomorrow where I am reviewing the Ethan Shirt in tween sizes, which I’ve made 3 times now.  I have some photos of the tween together in their Ethan Shirts, so you don’t want to miss that!

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How to Add a Lining to the Jocole Yoga A-Line Skirt

How to add a lining to the Jocole Yoga A-Line skirt

How to add a lining to the Jocole Yoga A-Line skirt

As I promised yesterday, I have a tutorial for how to add a lining to the Jocole Yoga A-line skirt.

  • When you are cutting out the skirt, cut out an additional front and back pieces on the fold of knit lining fabric, but cut the lining fabric 3-6 inches shorter than your finished length of the skirt.
  • Complete step 1 and 2 of the lining fabric also, making a tube of the lining.
  • Before step 13, slip your lining inside your skirt, wrong sides together, matching up the top edges.
  • When you pin and stitch in steps 13 and 14, be sure to catch your lining fabric also.  You will be sewing four layers together, the lining, the skirt, and two waistband layers.

That’s it!  Just a few easy steps, and you can add a lining to the Jocole Yoga A-line skirt.   So now you can use some of the totally awesome, sheer fabrics that are on the market right now.

Like this awesome light mocha rose matte stretch lace knit fabric from Girl Charlee.

Or this burnout knit we saw the other day at JoAnn Fabrics.

Now for the other part of what we promised you yesterday.  How to downsize the Jocole Yoga A-Line skirt for a tween.  Here’s where it gets kind of math-y, so if you want to just skip down to the giveaway, we forgive you!

Take your tween’s measurements for waist and hips and enter them into this equation:

Tween’s size/Pattern size measurement= Decimal Number

Take the first 2 numbers of the decimal and set your printer to scale to that size.  For example:

Aria’s waist measurement is 24 inches.  The pattern measurement for size medium is 28 inches.  Divide these two numbers and you get .85714286  The first two numbers round to 86, so I enter 86% in my printer’s scale option.  To determine the proper length, I recommend just printing out the pattern and measuring the length on the child you want to make it and add on the hem allowance and make the skirt that finished length.  Or else you can compute your percentage from above and apply that to the pattern’s finished length and do some more math!  You choose.

Jocole Yoga A-Line skirt tween size

One last thing before the giveaway, please notice how well we matched up the ruffles at the side seams.  Thank you!  Now onto the giveaway.  This is the last day to enter the giveaway for 2 free Jocole PDF patterns of your choice.  We’ll see you tomorrow for information about my top in this picture!

Back of Jocole Yoga A-Line Skirt

a Rafflecopter giveaway

See you tomorrow!

Audrey

 

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Baby Wrap Two Ways

gauze baby wrap

Sometimes I over-plan.  Do you ever do that?  Recently I decided I needed a new wrap.  Not the kind you eat, the kind you wear!

baby wrap

I have one baby wrap (not pictured in this post) that I absolutely love and have used to tie on my babies for year.  But this wrap has 2 limitations that were going to make it difficult to use for traveling, which was why I needed a new baby wrap.  My old, very expensive, very well used wrap was too hot for a summer trip and too long for easy use in airplanes and airports.  So I spent a very long time researching how to make my own baby wrap.  I read many DIY baby wrap tutorials, dug through my stash for a lightweight fabric, and cut and sewed, shaped, fit, made french seams, measured, wrapped, unwrapped, and so on until I had what I thought was the perfect baby wrap! (I also felt great solidarity by sewing with linen along with the Challenge Create: Fabric Swap Edition Linen ladies!)

linen baby wrap

But…I just wasn’t happy with it!  The brown floral linen fabric I used for the baby wrap ended up being scratchy as well as lightweight, so not great for all day on and airplane and in airports.  And in my effort to make the wrap short, I made it almost too short, and wasn’t certain this was the perfect wrap for traveling.  So the day before I left on my trip, I raced down to the fabric store, bought 2 yards of black gauze fabric, washed it, zig-zagged the edges, and that was it!

linen baby wrap

Guess which wrap I like better?  Guess which wrap I wear all the time: the linen one I took over 2 hours to make, or the gauze one that took 5 minutes?  The gauze one, of course!  Now both baby and I love a baby wrap.

linen baby wrap

It’s our favorite way to travel, both across the country, and around the house!

gauze baby wrap

He usually falls asleep after a few minutes in the baby wrap.

hands free baby wrap

It’s handy to have my hands free, and baby gets to be close to me.  So now I have 3 baby wraps: 1 for winter when the extra length and weight are perfect!  One for hot summer days and short trips around town.  One for all day whether hiking, gardening, or just hanging out!

gauze baby wrap

As one of my friends said recently, “You can never have too many wraps!”  I think I’ll make a knit baby wrap next!

Baby Wraps by Skirt Fixation

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The Perfect Diaper Bag!

perfect diaper bag inside

I have been wanting a new diaper bag for a while.  Because I have had 7 babies, I knew exactly what I wanted in a diaper bag.  I’ve had enough experience and enough bags to know exactly what I wanted, what worked, what was annoying, etc!  So this time around I decided to sew my own.  These are the things that I wanted in a perfect diaper bag:

the perfect diaper bag

  1. Washable fabric on the outside.  Most diaper bags have the smooth, wipeable fabric on the inside thinking any messes can be easily wiped up that way.  But I’ve had 7 babies, so, being the expert that I am, I wanted the washable fabric on the OUTSIDE.  You see, I’ve learned that the outside of the bag gets so dirty from being dragged around everywhere, used as an impromptu picnic basket, or a seat cushion while sitting for hours on metal bleachers, and the laminated cotton on the OUTside makes it so easy to clean when (not if!) it gets dirty, and resists stains too!  I had extra fabric left from making Annie a rain jacket, and it was perfect for this use.pockets inside the perfect diaper bag
  2. Pockets on the inside, but not too many!  I was gifted some (more) fabric a while back and in it I found the beginning of an apron the giver started to sew from some really cute fabric and then quit.  They had just finished attaching to pockets to the front piece when they stopped!  apron beforeWell, that’s exactly the size of pockets I wanted.  Big enough for a change of clothes for 2 children.  The baby and the next one up…they are the ones most likely to need them!  inside diaper bag
  3. A ring on the inside to clip things to.  There’s nothing like searching around in the bottom of a deep bag among the crumbs, empty wrappers and unidentifiable things for those elusive keys while juggling a baby, a toddler, a few bags of groceries, all the while your cell phone is tinkling your husband’s special ring!  I also keep my bag in a bag.  This is where I put dirty diapers and soiled clothing until I can get home and wash them.perfect diaper bag inside
  4. BIG pocket for everything else.  I keep the diaper clutch, a swaddling blanket, and a small pouch with all my first aid needs.  Yes, with seven offspring, I do carry an entire first aid kit in my diaper bag!  Creams, gels, pills, a small toy, extra pacifier, bandages, snacks, etc. all go in this little zipper pouch.pocket for mom on the perfect diaper bag
  5. One zipper pocket on the back for MY stuff!  It needed to be big enough to hold a tablet and wallet, but not so cavernous that every extra thing gets thrown in there and it’s no longer MY pocket, but my-and-everything-including-the-spare-parts-for-the-kitchen-sink-pocket.back of perfect diaper bag
  6. Two side pockets of different heights.  One short enough for a cell phone one tall enough for a water (or baby) bottle.  This way a leaky bottle doesn’t get put on top of my cell phone because the rice-in-a-bag trick doesn’t work!Diaper bag and clutch
  7. A short strap.  Most diaper bag tutorials have instructions for an adjustable handle, but I really don’t need it banging around my knees while I’m already trying not to trip over my toddler, or 6 year old, or 8 year old, or the odd teenager or two!  I don’t need it to be long enough to be cross body either as I’m already probably balancing a baby on one hip and a toddler on the other!messenger diaper bag
  8. A flap over the top long/large enough to cover and protect the contents, but not tied/latched/snapped/connected as I need to be able to open it one handed while using the other hand to keep the baby on the flimsy changing table, and one leg to block the toddler from crawling out from under the stall wall while yelling, “Mom, what’s that lady doing?  I heard somebody toot!”diaper clutch with changing pad
  9. A grab and go diaper clutch.  Why I waited for the seventh child to make myself one of these is a mystery.  Chalk it up to too many recurrences of pregnancy induced baby brain!  But this little thing is a sweet!  Most often, the whole diaper bag stays in the vehicle and I grab the clutch and go.  It holds only a few diapers and a slim container of wipes.  It also is a changing mat that folds up and buttons together.  This is so handy for when I run into somewhere for just an hour or so and don’t need the whole perfect diaper bag.  fold up changing pad

For specifics, I loosely used this tutorial, but changed the dimensions to be shorter and wider as well as all the perfections I made above!

The Perfect Diaper Bag!

Take it from me, a Mom of many, this is the perfect diaper bag!