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Janie Dress and Dressage Leggings Outfit

Janie Dress sewn by Skirt Fixation

Janie Dress sewn by Skirt Fixation

Annie’s fall/winter wardrobe gained another piece!  She’s been watching rather enviously the parade of Janie Dresses I’ve been sewing for Baby Tina, and when I told her it was her turn, she requested this pattern!  

Janie Dress sewn by Skirt Fixation

Inspired by the week 1 theme at Project Run & Play, Kid Designed – Momma Sewn, I asked Annie to design a fall outfit for herself.  She perused our fabric stash and came up with this liverpool floral knit fabric.  Because we had plenty of it, we both agreed the Janie Dress would be perfect.  The large scale print works well on a full circle skirt where as a tiny print would look busy, in my opinion.  

Janie Dress sewn by Skirt Fixation

For Annie’s tall and lanky frame, I blended the size 5 and size 12 patterns together!  At the waist I used the 5, and the size 12 for length and shoulder width.  Also, we used the whole width of the fabric on the circle skirt instead of using the size 12 length to get it as long as possible.  By the end of the winter, it’ll probably be right at the knee if Annie keeps growing like a weed!

Janie Dress sewn by Skirt Fixation

Because of her fond memories of this dress, Annie wanted the cowl version of the Janie Dress.  We decided a solid black knit fabric would be perfect for the cowl, both to separate the print from her face, and to match the leggings she designed for underneath.  

Janie Dress sewn by Skirt Fixation

For the leggings, we used the quick and easy version included with the Dressage Leggings pattern.  We sewed her a size 10 with size 12 length.  These fit Annie perfectly, and she was in desperate need of a new pair of black leggings for fall and winter.  This was the only picture I got where you can get a good glimpse of the leggings and I love the concentrated look on Annie’s face!

Janie Dress sewn by Skirt Fixation

Both of these patterns were quick and easy to sew.  Using our Brother 1034d serger, we completed them both (all except the hems) in short order.  Actually, the circle skirt is unhemmed because liverpool knit does not fray, and it was much less time consuming than hemming aaaaaalllllll the way around that circle!

Janie Dress sewn by Skirt Fixation

Liverpool knit fabric is interesting.  It’s thick like a double knit, but has a crepe like texture on the face.  This almost pebbled look and feel is quite unique.  

Hand sewn labels designed by Skirt Fixation

Oh, and I was quite pleased to be able to use the new labels I designed from Dutch Label Shop.  No more questions about what is the front on handmade clothes anymore!  If you’d like to get your own labels, use the code skirtfixation15 for 15% off your purchase until December 3rd.

Annie was quite pleased with her design and it’s so fun to bring her vision to life!  She’s a pretty good little designer, and we’ve planned some more projects in the future…stay tuned!

Affiliate links are used in this post.  If you click one of our affiliate links, we may make a few pennies at no extra cost to you.  Thank you for supporting our small sewing business!

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Double Circle Maxi Skirt for Summer

Double circle maxi skirt sewn by Skirt Fixation

As I mentioned yesterday, I ordered another summer fabric from the Summer CLUB fabric line at Raspberry Creek Fabrics.  It’s called bubble stripe and I got the version on rayon challis.  (It also comes on jersey knit or french terry.)  This rayon challis is very easy to work with and doesn’t shift and move while you are working with it, like other rayon tends to do.  

Double circle maxi skirt sewn by Skirt Fixation

Annie requested a summer maxi skirt.  Since there were a few ideas in my head I wanted to try out, I agreed!  Enter the double circle maxi skirt.  I’m not sure how successfully these worked out in person, so please chime in with your opinion!  I’ve broken the look down into separate ideas I tried with notes/thoughts on the success of that part.

Double circle maxi skirt sewn by Skirt Fixation

Idea #1  Double circle skirt:

I used Dana of Made Everyday’s video tutorial for making circle skirts.  The double circle maxi skirt compounds the fun of a circle skirt, and I think this part works well!

Double circle maxi skirt sewn by Skirt Fixation

Idea #2 Stripes on Stripes

For the top fabric, I used rayon challis in bubble stripe.  It’s lightweight, floaty, and simply divine for a circle skirt.  The colors are perfect for summer, and the bubbles are not such obvious stripes that they clash with the stripes underneath.  I think this part works too!

Double circle maxi skirt sewn by Skirt Fixation

Idea #3 Different types of circles

The top circle skirt is a full circle skirt.  The reason there are side seams is because of a personal error where I forgot to make the 2nd fold.  Embarrassing!!!  But it’s still a full circle.  The skirt underneath is a 1/2 circle skirt with just a seam in the back.  Each would make a great skirt on it’s own, but the dichotomy between the two fullnesses doesn’t quite work, in my opinion.

Double circle maxi skirt sewn by Skirt Fixation

Idea #4 Different fabric substrates

The top circle skirt is rayon challis, while the green stripes underneath are a rayon spandex knit.  Because the two fabrics have different weights and drape differently (which could also be part of the difference in fullnesses discussed in idea #3) so this idea is not grabbing me either.

Double circle maxi skirt sewn by Skirt Fixation

Idea #5 Maxi circle skirt

With 60” wide fabric, about the longest you can make a full circle skirt is 25 inches.  (It depends on the waist measurement, but this is a child’s measurement, so an adult’s circle skirt will not be any longer.)  But Annie wanted a maxi circle skirt, so that was the reason for using a 1/2 circle underneath.  It’s possible to make a 1/2 circle skirt longer.  However, I think the difference between the two circles is too great.  Perhaps adding another layer in-between to break up the large gap would work better.  The top layer is 25” long, the bottom is 31” long, so adding a layer at 28” would bridge the gap.  You can see an example of a three layer circle skirt we made here.  Another option would be to use our tutorial for making a longer circle skirt with narrow fabric here.

Double circle maxi skirt sewn by Skirt Fixation

You know what’s funny though?  All this dissection of the pattern and analysis of the elements of this skirt are only in my brain.  Annie has NO issues with this skirt!  She loves it, and that’s what I need to focus on, right?

Double circle maxi skirt sewn by Skirt Fixation

I’m linking this up to the Streak, Stroke, Stripe! sew along at Project Run & Play, even thought I’m not eligible to win!  But you should link up any stripes you’ve sewn so you have a chance to win!

Double circle maxi skirt sewn by Skirt Fixation

Leave me a comment with your thoughts and opinions on this skirt.   Or let me know what you do when you overanalyze something you’ve created.

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Bloom & Grow Skirt – Free Girl’s Skirt Pattern!

Free girl's Bloom & Grow skirt pattern from Skirt Fixation

Today we’re excited to release a free girl’s skirt pattern, the Bloom & Grow Skirt.  As in the past few years in July, we’re excited to join in with Simple Simon and Co. for the Skirting The Issue charity sewing event!  We’re releasing another free girl’s skirt pattern, the Bloom & Grow skirt.Free girl's Bloom & Grow skirt pattern from Skirt Fixation

If you want to go straight to download the skirt, click here!

We designed the Bloom & Grow skirt with the growing girl in mind.  This skirt is designed for use with double border print fabrics.  Often, these fabrics feature a floral print.  The extra fullness of this skirt makes it super twirly and the elastic waist is perfect for any growing girl.

Annie is wearing a petticoat underneath this Bloom & Grow skirt to show the fullness!  Because this skirt is not cut across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge like traditional skirts, but down the length of the yardage, it is a very full skirt!

The fabric used for this skirt is Sage Prickly Pear Indigo by Art Gallery Fabrics.  It is a double border print fabric which means the pattern is printed along both sides or selvedges, down the length of the fabric.

Another beautiful double border print fabric you could also use is Garden Walk fabric by Art Gallery Fabrics.

We also designed some floral radiograph double print border fabric, and think it’d be smashing on the Bloom & Grow Skirt!

We’d love it if you use this free girl’s skirt pattern to sew up some skirts for Skirting The Issue.  Read all about Skirting The Issue here.  And then link up your skirts for girls in foster care.

You can also check out our other very popular free girl’s skirt patterns:FREE Dollhouse Skirt pattern from Skirt Fixation.

The Dollhouse Skirt

The Pegasus Skirt, a free pattern from Skirt Fixation

The Pegasus Skirt

So now you can go grab our newest free girl’s skirt pattern: The Bloom & Grow Skirt!

A few affiliate links are used in this post to really beautiful fabric.  If you click on our links, we might make a few pennies…thanks!

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Black Friday-Cyber Monday Sale & Tester Photos

Knee Length Runway Skirt by Savvy Patterns

While you are making your Black Friday plans, be sure to include Savvy Patterns!  We’re having a 30% off sale storewide.  This means you can get the Runway Skirt for yourself and send gift certificates to any one you like for the lowest prices of the year!  Sale runs from Black Friday – Cyber Monday (11/24 – 11/28) and discount will already be shown.

Now I’d like to show you some of the tester versions of the Runway Skirt so you can see many possible options. I was so fortunate to have very talented and kind testers for my first pattern!

Midi Runway Skirt by Savvy Patterns

Amy made a 32″ midi length in scuba knit with lightweight jersey godets.

Knee Length Runway Skirt by Savvy Patterns

Britt made a 26″ knee length in stretch velvet with lightweight peach skin godets.

Knee Length Runway Skirt by Savvy Patterns

Jeannette made a 26″ knee length in scuba knit with silky godets.

Maxi Runway Skirt by Savvy PatternsKaren sewed a 42″ maxi skirt from ponte knit with lace godets for her daughter.

Knee Length Runway Skirt by Savvy Patterns

Katie was one of my pre testers, and I owe a lot to her!  Her Runway Skirt is knee length, in knit with rayon gauze godets.

Midi length Runway Skirt by Savvy Patterns

Katrina used a knit and lace fused for the main portion of her skirt and lace for the godets.

Knee Length Runway Skirt by Savvy Patterns

Kellie made a 24″ knee length skirt from ponte de roma with knit lace godets.

Knee length Runway Skirt by Savvy Patterns

Kerrie sewed a 23″ knee length skirt in ponte with lightweight knit for the godets.

Knee Length Runway Skirt by Savvy Patterns

Melana made a 25″ knee length skirt in knit jersey rayon with Ity knit godets.

Midi length Runway Skirt by Savvy Patterns

Tenille made a 30″ midi skirt from a wool blend stretch woven with chiffon godets.

Didn’t all these ladies do a wonderful job?  Can’t you just see the confidence in their eyes as if they were walking on a runway?

Now you see how many variations of the Runway Skirt can be made using different lengths and fabrics. Grab yours during the 30% off sale over at Savvy Patterns!


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The Chess Skirt vs The Knight Hoodie

Chess outfits created and sewn by Skirt Fixation for Crafting Con

Today we are participating in Crafting Con’s Board Games theme competition.  There’s some pretty stiff competition (pun intended!) from the likes of Frances Suzanne and Stitched by Crystal.  Naturally, we had to make every move count before we found ourselves in check mate.  So we chose the game of chess. Chess outfits created and sewn by Skirt Fixation for Crafting ConThe oldest game, played by millions for hours over the years!  Chess required 2 players, so we had to include 2 children.  Boy vs. Girl.  Black vs. White.To read more about the outfits, the photo shoot, and to find out who won that chess game, be sure to visit Crafting Con!

My idea started with the boy outfit.  There was no questions the occasion called for a Knight Hoodie by Charming Doodle! Chess outfits created and sewn by Skirt Fixation for Crafting ConAnd to make an even more powerful statement, we added the knight chess piece on the back, using reverse appliqué.  In black of course, since Thomas was representing the black chess pieces.  I used the knight template and printed it at 100%, or full paper size.  I used our reverse appliqué tutorial, found hereChess outfits created and sewn by Skirt Fixation for Crafting ConDue to Thomas’s tall and lanky frame, I had to make him a Knight Hoodie in a size 7 width by size 12 long!  Talk about almost checkmating Mom!  Next time I will lengthen the sleeves even more. Chess outfits created and sewn by Skirt Fixation for Crafting ConAll the top stitching on the Knight Hoodie is in black, of course.  The grey sweatshirt knit came from Girl Charlee, and the cuffs and waistband are from an old sweater. Chess outfits created and sewn by Skirt Fixation for Crafting ConThe Knight Hoodie pattern calls for buttons in many different places on the armor, but Thomas wanted none of it!  He was afraid it would make his Knight Hoodie too much like a costume, and he wanted to wear it everyday.  I thought they would look cool, and add to the overall effect, but obviously he won that round!Chess outfits created and sewn by Skirt Fixation for Crafting ConThomas needed some pants to go with his Knight Hoodie, so again I turned to the Oliver + S Field Trip Cargo Pants.  This is the second time I made these, and this time I made a few changes.  I changed the waistband to be exposed, thus enlarging the size of the pockets which was an issue on the first pair.  I also lengthened the pants at the bottom even more.  This 2nd pair of Field Trip Cargo Pants took me less time than the first pair, and I think I have a new obsession!  I found the black twill fabric for these pants in my stash.  Chess outfits created and sewn by Skirt Fixation for Crafting ConNext up was the girl look.  Since Annie is the current recipient of the current edition of All The Skirts: Oliver + S & Fat Quarter Shop, she didn’t need any more new clothes, but Aria did.  So again we made our move with Oliver + S pattens.Chess outfits created and sewn by Skirt Fixation for Crafting ConSince we are currently sewing up ALL the Oliver + S skirts, we were looking for an excuse to sew the free Lazy Days skirt.  This skirt is the perfect palette for a game of chess.  First, I added some checkered fabric (from the stash!) onto the bottom of a black piece of fabric (thank you stash!) Chess outfits created and sewn by Skirt Fixation for Crafting ConAria is representing the white chess pieces, so we stenciled them in white onto black fabric, just sitting on the edge of the checker board.  If you want to make a chess skirt, we’ve got the free printable for you below!  Aria, who is quite a nerd herself, insisted the pieces be in the proper chess order, and there are two full sets of white chess pieces around the whole border of the skirt.  Allegra gets the prize for stenciling them all on!  I used black seam binding to finish the bottom of the Lazy Days Chess Skirt.Chess outfits created and sewn by Skirt Fixation for Crafting ConAria need a simple black t-shirt for summer.  We used the Oliver+S women’s Metro T-shirt and black knit fabric from Girl Charlee.  The only change we made was to use narrow black fold over elastic (from Amazon) on the neckline which gives it a tiny bit more femininity.  We cut out one size smaller than the XS by overlapping the pattern piece off the edge of the fold on the front and back pieces.  I can’t tell you how much satisfaction it gives me to be able to make plain old t-shirts!Chess outfits created and sewn by Skirt Fixation for Crafting ConIn Summary:

Black Chess Look:

Top Pattern: Knight Hoodie from Charming Doodle

Top Fabric: Gray sweatshirt fleece from Girl Charlee

Knight Stencil: Free download here.  Print at 100%

Pants Pattern: Oliver+S Field Trip Cargo Pants

Pants Fabric: Lightweight black twill from our stash

White Chess Look:

Top Pattern: Oliver+S women’s Metro T-shirt

Top Fabric: Black jersey knit from Girl Charlee

Skirt Pattern: Oliver+S Lazy Days skirt

Skirt Fabric: Black cotton from the stash

King & Queen Template: Free download here.  We printed at 60% for size 12 tween.  You may want to go smaller for younger child’s skirt.

Chess Pieces Template:  Free download here.  Print at the same percentage as King and Queen.  Chess outfits created and sewn by Skirt Fixation for Crafting ConTo read more about the outfits, the photo shoot, and to find out who won that chess game, be sure to visit Crafting Con!  But only if you can stand more bad chess puns!!!

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One Last Winter Skirt

Plaid skirt with red flowers sewn by Skirt Fixation

Plaid skirt with red flowers sewn by Skirt FixationToday we have one final winter skirt tutorial for you! Because it’s finally warming up. I drafted this skirt myself, with a lot of math and sweat and so on, but you could probably use Simplicity 5524  to make a similar skirt.

Plaid skirt with red flowers sewn by Skirt FixationI made an 8 paneled skirt, where the panels widened at the bottom for a gentle flair. I picked this lightweight wool fabric out of my stash. There is a side zipper. I didn’t worry about pattern matching because I really wanted to different panels to show!  Then I decided it was too plain and needed a little splash of something fun to pick me up out of the winter doldrums.

Plaid skirt with red flowers sewn by Skirt Fixation

Enter some red, double fold bias trim, folded (pretty much) evenly to create a pleated hem. Almost there! Then I decided 2 red flowers would be just the ticket, and traced some onto Wonder Under.

Then, I carefully cut out around the flowers, ironed them onto the skirt, and added a little top stitching for extra security.

Plaid skirt with red flowers sewn by Skirt FixationNow that’s how you make a skirt pop! I paired this skirt with a plain black button up, but it could easily be dressed down with a tee also.

Plaid skirt with red flowers sewn by Skirt FixationWhat did you do to make it through the last of winter? Did it involve sewing?

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Style Studio Skirts for Fall

Diagonal Stripe Skirt made with Style Studio app

Recently I have been thinking about fall skirts and what to wear for fall, so I decided that I wanted to design something that I might want to wear for fall. I decided to use our app, Style Studio that we have and design a fall skirt or two or even three!

Style Studio Plaid SkirtMy first skirt is a wider and shorter skirt. The skirt is also more flow-y, so I wanted to do something resembling plaid. I finally decided after playing around a while with the different patterns to do something late fall, early winter. The skirt is such a cute skirt! I would wear the skirt every day if I had it and I might wear it with a cute sweater.

Leaf Skirt made with Style Studio appMy next skirt is a ruffled shorter skirt and I wanted to do something very fall-ish so I and I found a pattern that was like leaves and I decided to use that and recolor it so it looked more like fall. This is also a cute skirt but I don’t like it as much as the first or the last so by now you’re probably dying to know what the last one is as I’ve already made mention of it!

Diagonal Stripe Skirt made with Style Studio appThis one is also extremely cute, it’s a more maxi skirt with stripes that look quite modern. Allegra got a skirt with diagonal stripes like this for her birthday, so I have hope since I have a birthday coming up soon! This one is more of a early fall one, so I would probably be wearing it right now if I had it!!! Anyway maybe one of our next skirts we make or refashion will be close to or almost exactly like one of the skirts I have just designed using the Style Studio app.  Have you ever used Style Studio to design clothing?  It’s really fun, you should try it!

Get flirty with skirts,


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A Little Princess: Costume Design

A Little Princess Costume design

Today I’m introducing a new kind of post. Costume design. I was browsing along the other day, and found a post about movie costume design and realized that I am really fascinated by the dynamics of movie costumes, especially for women, and how the colors and textures are used to evoke emotions. I’m going to tell about the 1995 children’s movie, “A Little Princess.”  This is one of my favorite books, and the story of the little girl who is left at a boarding school in England while her father goes off to fight is enthralling. Eventually, little Sara Crewe’s father dies and she becomes a slave to the mean owner of the school, until her father’s business partner, who was living next door, discovers her and she becomes his ward. The film is also gorgeous, although it is set in New York, and takes some liberties, the two largest of which are showing Becky, Sara’s scullery-maid friend, as an African-American girl, and making Sara’s father be alive in the end, instead of remaining dead. (Ha, that sounded weird!) Also, the film is set in WWI, instead of the Victorian Era.

Anyway, the costume designer for this movie was Judianna Makovsky. Apparently the director wanted a palette of almost significantly green, which no one thought was a good idea except for Ms. Makovsky (Green isn’t supposed to do very well on camera).

The film starts in India, which is characterized by a palette of yellows, oranges, and creams, making a sort of warmth and feeling of home, while still being exotic. New York, where Sara is dropped off, is drabber, with grays, dark greens, and browns.

A Little Princess Costume design

When Sara is in New York for the first time, she wears a very clean, pure cream-colored coat, which gives an innocent feel while still being very opulent.

A Little Princess costume design

The schools uniforms are green, with drop waists, pleated skirts, and large embroidered collars. White pinafores are also worn over the dresses. There are lots of big, poufy hair bows and the overall effect is uniform and beautiful.

A little princess costume design

When Sara is relegated to being almost a slave, she wears dark brown and black, which heighten the audience’s realization of her sadness and new position. This dress is also short, or too small, which adds to the overall pain that we experience along with Sara. During this time, Sara makes friends with a native servant, who is dressed exotically in the oranges and creams reminiscent of India.

A Little Princess Costume Design

When a mystery friend (The native servant) decorates her room, the draperies and decorations are all in shades of orange, yellow, cream and green.

A Little Princess Costume Design

At the end of the movie, both her and Becky are wearing darker cream coats, which symbolizes to me her return to her previous fortune and state.

Anyway, I really enjoyed studying and finding out so much about this, and I’m sure I’ll have more of these costume design posts very soon! Don’t you think costume design is a great thing to study in the weeks leading up to the biggest costume event of the year? Keep your eyes peeled!


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Chiffon Maxi Skirt Knock Off

chiffon maxi skirt

Hello again, loyal followers, Allegra here. I wanted another summer skirt, but had a flowy-er one in mind this time.  A chiffon maxi skirt was what I needed!

Chiffon Maxi SkirtI looked out some fabrics from in our stash, and found this light pink one with a flowery pattern of darker pinks and grays. I did want a maxi skirt, and mom said she could probably work with this chiffon, so we got started. First we asked dad if he had any suggestions, ‘cause he’s been helping us out with projects quite a bit lately.

Inspiration Skirt

He liked the gathered style that I had picked in this inspiration photo, but said that we should probably not gather it as much if any at the sides, because that makes a poof, which can cause the feeling of large hips. Uh, yeah. So we did take his advice, and made the sides a lot less gathered.

chiffon maxi skirtHere’s Mom to tell you about the construction process:

1: Sew a tube from the width of the lining fabric.  (Mine was 44/45” width)

2: Sew a tube from the width of the pink chiffon fabric.  (Mine was 60” width)

3: Gather these 2 tubes separately, both to the same circumference.  Then I shifted the gathers on the chiffon fabric so most of the gathers were in the front and the back to achieve the look like the inspiration photo.

4: Baste these 2 gathered tubes together.

5: Finish the tops of these two.  I decided to do it at this point because I could do it in one step.

6: Sew the two layers to wide elastic for a waistband.  This was the first time I’d done this, and you’ll notice there are no photos of the waistband exposed!  But since Allegra doesn’t plan to wear it that way, we’re both happy!

7: Hem the bottoms of the two layers.  I did this at this point so that I could level them off and even them up!  If you are a super seamstress, you can do this at an earlier step, but because it was my first time sewing on an exposed elastic waistband, I wasn’t sure how even the hem would be when I was finished!  Plus Allegra wanted the lining to be about 2 inches shorter than the chiffon overlayer, so that’s another reason I did it after!  It was really very easy, and I’ll be using this method again.

chiffon maxi skirtNow I have a cute chiffon maxi skirt that’s more fancy, and more flowy, just what I wanted!

DIY chiffon maxi skirtThanks for reading,


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How to Make a Pattern From a Skirt

Today I’m going to show you how to make a pattern from a skirt and then tomorrow I will show you how to modify that pattern into a skirt for every season!  Do you remember this skirt?

thrift store skirtI used it to make the lining for Annie’s raincoat.  But if you remember, I loved it and wore it and wore it and finally wore it out!  So before I cut it up to make the lining of Annie’s raincoat, I took a pattern off of it.

lining cut from a skirtGood thing I did, because when I was done it looked like this!  Making a pattern from a skirt is very easy to do.  You will only need a piece of lightweight, non-glued interfacing.  Fold your skirt in 1/2 and trace over the top of the skirt onto the interfacing.  Then add any extra needed allowance at the top for the darts.  There was one dart on the top of my skirt 1/2, so I tapered the top out an extra inch away from the skirt and added a dart marking where the dart was on the skirt.

dart and zipperYou can see where I have marked the dart and the bottom of the zipper here.  Now cut out around your markings on the interfacing.  For a waistband, you need to cut out a rectangle 2.5 inches wide and 4 times as long as the top of your interfacing pattern.  For example, the top of my pattern was 9 inches across, so I cut out a 2.5” x 36” rectangle.   Because of the 4 pleats around the skirt, and the seam allowances, this will allow you plenty of  length to make the overlapping ends of the waistband.

interfacing patternThere you have it!  A pattern from a skirt!  you didn’t think it was going to be that easy did you?  With this very basic skirt pattern you can make so many variations, and tomorrow I’m going to show you 4 different skirts I made, one for every season, from taking this pattern from a skirt.  How about you, have you ever made a pattern from a skirt or any piece of existing clothing?

Make it beautiful,