Yesterday Adrianna Appl of Hey June Handmade released the Willamette Shirt. It’s a boxy dolman popover shirt with several different options for sewing. I made view A with sleeve cuffs. There are also options for a cropped version or one with a waist seam and color blocking options.
The Willamette Shirt can be made in 11 sizes from 2 to 22. It has a boxy silhouette, which means it goes straight from the waist to the hem. In other words, totally kind and complimentary to a body that’s birthed 8 babies…one as recent as 2 months ago!
This pattern is a great one for an advanced beginner seamstress looking for an entry pattern into sewing woven button up shirts. I love the Cheyenne Tunic pattern, and will continue to sew it over and over again! But the new Willamette Shirt is a lot faster to sew…I made this one in one afternoon. The plackets are actually facing, and the collar is one piece sandwiched between the yoke and the front, so much easier to construct. You don’t even have to make the button and button hole, you can just sew the placket shut up higher, like I did.
I love the pleat in the back (which is hard to see in this photo.) I made the inverted pleat, but there are 2 other types of pleats you could make there too…all completely detailed in the pattern, of course!
For the fabric, I used some Robert Kaufman lawn designed by Liesl Gibson (of Oliver + S.) I had hoarded it for a while, and only had 2 yards. The Willamette Shirt fabric requirements is 3 yards, but I managed to get this one from 2 yards with a tiny little pile of scraps left, as I shared in my Instagram Story! (For reference, I made a size 8…it probably could not be done in much larger sizes.) This lawn is very lightweight and drapey and works great to give some movement to this boxy top. I used the navy blue color way which is mostly sold out, but Kaufman Woodland Clearing Birds in Branches Coral Fabric is still available.
I sewed the Willamette Shirt without making a muslin with NO alterations to the pattern! Normally this would be a pretty dumb thing to do, but since I’ve sewn so many Hey June patterns and am familiar with the way they fit, I was comfortable in doing that. Usually I do add width to the shoulders of my Hey June patterns, but because this pattern has dolman sleeves, that wasn’t necessary either!
One reason I sew any Hey June pattern I can is because I always learn something new from them. For this pattern, it was the genius way the facing is constructed together with the yoke and collar. At one point I was pretty sure I was going to have to unpick the whole thing, but kept going according to the instructions, and never had to undo and redo anything!
If you get your copy of the Willamette Shirt right now, it’s on sale! I can assure you it’s worth it.
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